This version of our sliding door console plans is built primarily with off the shelf materials. It does not require any complicated cuts, and you can probably have your local big box store make the limited cuts needed for the plywood pieces. Everything else can be accomplished with a basic miter saw or circular saw.

Materials:

• 2 – 1×8 at 6 feet long
• 4 – 1×10 at 6 feet long
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ thick plywood or hardboard (for back)
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ thick plywood (for the sides)
• 8 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long (for trim, door, and shelf supports)
• 7 – 1×4 @ 10 feet long (doors and face frame)
• 5 – 2x4s @ 8 feet long (for frame)
• Wood screws
• Nails
• Hardware for sliding doors – You can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own.  I made my own for my rustic barn wood dog crate.

Tools:

• Saws: Circular or miter
• Drill / Driver
• Nail Gun or hammer
• Kreg jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Wood Glue (I’m a fan of Titebond)

Step 1: Build the upper and lower frames

Start by assembling your assembling your upper and lower frames.  Unlike most of our other sliding door console plans, these are made out of 2x4s (instead of 2x3s).  You will need to make two of these. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws for all joints.

Step 2: Add the plywood sides

Cut your two sides from the 3/4″ plywood sheet.  These are each 38 1/4″ high, by 21″ wide. Note that these will be 1/4″ wider than the frames so that you can let that 1/4″ overhang the back edge and will conceal the outer edges of the back panels we’ll add later.

I like using 16 gauge nails and wood glue. The glue itself, if applied correctly, will provide a much stronger bond than any mechanical fastener.  So the nails are really just holding it in place until the glue dries.

Note: Now is a good time to check to ensure the piece is square, before moving onto the face frame.

Step 3: Attach the face frame

The face frame is made out of 1 x 4 boards.   I prefer to actually build mine like an actual cabinet face, using mortise and tenon joints; but you can also use pocket hole screws from the backside. Note that since we are using 2x4s for the frame, we need to leave a 3/4″ gap below the bottom rail so that the front of the bottom shelf is covered by the face frame.

Once you have the face frame assembled, use wood glue and 16 or 18 gauge nails to nail it to the frames and sides. At this point you unit should be square, and stable.

Step 4: Floor and front shelf supports

We’re going to use one 1×12 and one 1×10 for the floor of the sliding door console. Use wood glue and a few nails to secure the floor in place.

Next add the four 14 1/2″ vertical shelf supports, made from 1x2s. These are glued and attached to the backs of the face frame.  The two outer ones should be pushed flush to the cabinet sides, while the two middle ones are centered on the face frame boards.

The middle shelf is also made from one 1×8 and one 1×10 both cut to 69″ in length. Use four 20 3/4″ horizontal shelf supports made from 1x2s to hold these boards together.  When building, make certain the horizontal shelf supports are aligned over the vertical supports installed on the last step. The shelf should be resting on the horizontal supports, not the 1×8 and 1×10.

Once the shelf is in place in the cabinet, attach the outer horizontal shelf supports to the cabinet sides using 1 1/4″ wood screws or nails.

Step 5: Rip and attach plywood back planking

For this version of the sliding door console, we are using a single solid sheet of 1/4″ plywood for the back. Cut this piece to 38 1/4 high by 69″ wide. Use wood glue and nails (or staples) at the top and bottom to attach to the frames, and also secure the middle of the plywood to the middle shelf to provide more structural integrity to the entire piece.

Note: it’s also a good practice to ensure the back of the piece is still square before you start attaching the planks.

Step 6: Bottom Trim

The bottom trim is made of 1×2 stock, cut with 45 degree miters.  Simply glue and nail it on.

Step 7: Top

The next step is attaching the top.  This consists of the two 1×12 boards, cut down to 72″.   Align them flush with the back of the piece, and overhanging each side by 3/4″.   To hide the fasteners, use a Kreg jig and pocket screws from underneath going through the upper frame.  Alternatively, you could use 16 or 18 gauge nails and wood glue straight down through the top. The small holes from the nails should be easy to fill with wood filler.

Step 8: Door and sliders

Each of the two doors consists of 6 pieces of 1×4 cut to 32 1/2″ in length. Using wood glue and pocket screws is the easiest way to connect these boards along their edges. After the 1x4s are connected, use 1x2s to create a frame and an X pattern on top of the 1x4s. Use wood glue and 16 or 18 gauge nails to attach the 1x2s. 

After you have your door built, you just need to attach it to your barn door sliders and your console is ready for finishing.  Again, you can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own.  I really enjoy making my own because it definitively gives a more rustic or antique feel to the piece.

If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below.  We love the feedback!  Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

After your done building something inspired by any of our plans we’d love for you to share your results by submitting your build.

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