Chaise lounge chairs can seem like an intimidating project, but if you have good plans, they are no more difficult to build than a chair or a bench – there are just more measuring and more cutting.   These DIY chaise lounge chair plans will walk you through, step by step, on just how to build you own chaise lounge chair.

Since these chairs are going to be used outside, I recommend using a good weather resistant wood such as cedar (or teak if you want to go really high end).  Though using pine is still fine, as long as you paint or seal it well.

Materials

• 2 – 1×6 x 83 3/4″
• 2 – 1×6 x 26”
• 4 – 1×2 x 44 1/2”
• 3 – 1×2 x 26”
• 30 – 1×3 x 26”
• 4 – 1 x 4 x 34 1/2″
• 2 – 1 x 4 x 2
• 2 – 1 x 2 x 19 1/2″
• 1 – 26 x 3/4″ dowel
• 2- 1 x 2 x 24″
• 16 – 1 x 2 x 1 1/2″
• 2 – 4 x 4 x 12 1/4″
• 2 – 4 x 4 x 11″
• 2 – 2″ x 3/8″ carriage bolts
• 2 – 3″ x 3/8″ carriage bolts
• 4 – washers
• 4 – 3/8″ nuts

Tools

• Table, miter, or circular saw
• Jig saw or band saw
• Drill / driver
• Router with a 3/4″ round over bit
• Tape Measure
• Square
• Sander or sandpaper
• Pneumatic nail gun (optional)
• Kreg pocket hole jig (optional)
• wood glue

Step 1: Build the outer frame

The first step is constructing a simple box to be the outside frame of your chaise lounge.  Use wood glue and either pocket screws from the inside or finish nails/screws from the outside.

Materials

• 2 – 1×6 x 83 3/4″
• 2 – 1×6 x 26”

Step 2: Assemble the inner frame

After you’ve assembled the outer frame, it’s time to assemble the inner frame which will become the support for the lower seat slats and the support for the upper slat of the backrest.  All of these pieces are offset from the top of the outer frame by 3/4″ (the thickness of the slats) so that the slats will sit flush with the outer frame.

I prefer to dry fit all of the pieces of the inner frame first to ensure they fit inside the outer frame properly, but then I assemble the inner frame separately before attaching it to the outer frame.  This method allows you to nail/screw the 26″ boards to the 44 1/2″ boards from the outside instead of using pocket screws or trying to toe nail them together.

Materials

• 4 – 1×2 x 44 1/2”
• 3 – 1×2 x 26”

Step 3: Attach the lower seat slats

This step is pretty straight forward.  Starting 1/4″ from the foot board of the outer frame, attach the 1×3 slats to the inner frame.  Here you actually don’t need to use wood glue, as gravity should hold them in place – particularly when you combine with nails or screws into each of the four support boards.

Remember to leave a 1/4″ gap between each of the slats.

Materials

• 17 – 1×3 x 26”

Step 4: Cut the backrest supports

Now that you have the stationary parts assembled it’s time to move onto the pieces that are going to move.  Start by cutting the four 1×4 pieces down to 34 1/2″, and then cut a 3 1/2″ radius arc in one end to allow for the backrest to rotate in and out of the frame.

These backrest supports should be laid out with a 7″ space between each board.

Materials

• 4 – 1 x 4 x 34 1/2″

Step 5: Attach the slats and filler blocks for the backrest

Now you will attach the thirteen 1×3″ slats to the backrest supports.  You’re going to start from the lowest slat, making certain the edge is aligned to the bottom edge of the backrest supports.  NOTE: this first slat requires you to round over the lower edge to allow the backrest to rotate up freely.  Continue attaching the remaining twelve slats using screws or nails in a similar fashion as the lower slats, leaving a 1/4″ gap in between each.

After you have the slats attached, it’s time to attach the two 1x4x2″ spacer blocks to the outside of the outer backrest support pieces. These should be offset from the lower end of the backrest supports by about 1/4″.

The last thing you’re going to want to do while building this section is drill the holes for the 3/8″ carriage bolts.  Two holes (one on each side) are through the spacer block.  The center of these holes should be 1″ in from each side, and 1/3″ down from the bottom of the slats. These holes are where the carriage bolt the backrest is going to rotate on, so it is important for these to be positioned precisely.

The other two holes are for the support arm carriage bolts.  These should be positioned 15 3/4″ in from the closest edge of the support blocks, and 1 3/4″ from the edge of the board.

Materials

• 13 – 1 x 3 x 26″
• 2 – 1 x 4 x 2

Step 6: Add the support arm to the backrest

Now the you have the backrest built, it’s time to assemble and attach the support arm that will allow you to adjust the resting angle of the backrest.  This requires you to drill one hole in each end of your 1 x 2 x 19 1/2″ board.  In one end, you’ll drill a 3/4″ diameter hole for the dowel.  This hole should be positioned 3/4″ in from each edge of the board.   The hole on the other end of the board is for the 3/8″ carriage and should also be positioned 3/4″ in from each edge.

One you have the holes drilled, use the 2″ carriage bolts to attach the arms to the insides of the outer backrest support boards, and slide the 3/4″ dowel through with an even overhang on each end.

Attach the backrest by laying it in place inside the inner frame.  Mark where the holes for the 3/8″ carriage bolts line up to the outer frame, drill these holes and use the 3″ carriage bolts to attach.

Materials

• 2 – 1 x 2 x 19 1/2″
• 1 – 26 x 3/4″ dowel
• carriage bolts

Step 7: Create the backrest support rests

Attach the 24″ 1×2 board under the upper inner frame board so that it sits 2 1/4″ beneath the top edge of the outer frame.  Then attach a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/4″ block every 1 1/2″, starting 1 1/2″ from the upper inner frame board as shown in the illustration below.  A good tip to ensure both sides stay laid out the exact same is to use another 26″ long 1×2 as a spacer laid across the two 24″ boards.

Materials

• 2- 1 x 2 x 24″
• 16 – 1 x 2 x 1 1/2″

Step 8: Cut and attach the legs

You’re almost done!  Now you just need to cut and attach the legs.  Of course you could just go with basic square 4×4 legs, but you’ve put this much work into your DIY chaise lounge chair, why not take the time to cut the tapers on two sides of the legs to give them a little extra style?  The illustrations below provide the layouts for these tapers.

Once the legs are cut, you can attach with wood glue and nails/screws from the outside or pocket hole screws from the inside.

Materials

• 2 – 4 x 4 x 12 1/4″
• 2 – 4 x 4 x 11″

Step 9: Finish as you see fit.

If you chose a good weather resistant wood like cedar or teak, simply oiling the finished chair should provide a beautiful finish that only requires minor maintenance each year (soap and water with a Scotchbrite pad, and re-oiling is recommended) .  If you used pine or something of the equivalent, you’ll want to stain and seal or paint your chair (including the bottom of the feet) to ensure it resists the elements well.

And there you have it. We hope you found these DIY chaise lounge chair plans useful.  Please leave us a comment below if you have any questions on the build, and let us know how yours turn out by submitting your build!  And don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

* This post may have affiliate links, which means I may receive commissions if you choose to purchase through links I provide (at no extra cost to you). As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting the work I put into this site.