These standard picnic table plans are reminiscent of the style of picnic table you may remember as a child, and that you can still see in the local parks. It’s a basic picnic table built of 2x4s and 2x6s that should last years with proper care and maintenance.

These picnic table plans allow for an easy build with a limited number of tools. As you are cutting your boards, if you make gang cuts, you’ll save time and wind up with greater consistency between your pieces.

If you have any questions about these DIY picnic table plans, ask us a question in the Comments section below.

Materials Required

• 9 – 2×6 @ 8′ (non-pressure treated for the top and seats)
• 4 – 2×6 @ 8′ (pressure treated for legs and supports)
• 2 – 2×4 @ 8′ (pressure treated)
• 12 – 3/8″ x 2 1/2″ lag screws
• 12 – washers
• 2 1/2″ deck screws

Tools needed

• Miter saw or circular saw
• Drill / driver combo
• Tape measure
• Square

Step 1: Start with the legs

You need four legs for these picnic table plans, and it’s easiest if you gang cut both legs for one side together, and then gang cut the legs for the other side. The legs are made from pressure treated 2×6 boards, and the total length of each leg should be 36″. Each end should be cut at a 60° angle parallel to each other.

Step 2: Assemble the leg structure

The next pieces to cut and attach are the leg tops and the seat supports. You’re going to need to cut two of each of these, so you can gang cut these again.

The leg assembly tops are made from 2x4s and cut to 28 1/2″ long. You can also make 45° cuts on each end to eliminate sharp corners where people could bang their legs. Align the top edge of this board with the top edges of the legs, ensuring that the outside corners of the leg boards are 20″ apart. Use a lag screw and washer through the top board to attach to each leg, ensuring to pre-drill the holes first.

For the seat support, these are made from pressure treated 2x6s cut to 58 1/2″ in length, again with the bottom corners cut to 45°. Attach these to the legs (on the same side as the top board) 11″ up from the ground, ensuring that they have equal overhangs on each side. Use two lag screws and washers to attach these seat supports

Step 3: Attach the top and braces

The next boards you are going to cut are your picnic table top boards. These should be non-pressure treated 2x6s (so they are safe for food and drinks to be on). Cut five of these to 72″ long and lay on a flat surface with 1/4″ gaps in between each board, ensuring the ends are all aligned.

Now cut a single 2×4 to 28 1/2″ long, and attach it across the center of the top boards using two wood screws per top board. Now cut your braces from 2x4s to a total length of 28 1/4″. One end should be cut at a 52° angle while the other should be cut at a 38° angle. Attach these braces into the center board of the top using deck screws. Make certain to not screw all of the way through the top board. Set your leg assemblies in place and use two deck screws through each seat support into the other end of the brace. This should put the top board of the leg assemblies exactly 10 1/2″ in from the outside edges of the table top.

Use deck screws to attach the boards of the table top to the tops of the leg assemblies.

Step 4: Attach the bench seats

Now it’s finally time to attach the bench seats of the picnic table. Use two non-pressure treated 2×6 boards cut to 72″ per side, attaching to the seat supports with deck screws. Add a support in the middle of each bench from a 2×4 to add extra stability to the benches.

Step 5: Stain and seal the entire table

Since we didn’t use pressure treated boards (because we wanted the table to be food safe), staining and sealing it, or painting it, is going to be very important to ensure a long life.

If you find these picnic table plans useful and wind up building your own, we’d love for you to share some pictures of your finish product and let us know how the build went.

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