Octagon Picnic Table plans

Of all of the designs of picnic tables out there, I think the octagon picnic tables are my favorite. Having eight sides, they comfortable seat more people than a standard picnic table. One additional thing I like about these plans for an octagon picnic table is that they leave a space in between the benches. That space means everyone can get in and out without having to climb over the bench or lean on the person next to them. This creates a much more comfortable and enjoyable outdoor dining experience.

Materials Required

  • 4 – pressure treated 2×6 @ 8′
  • 12 – non-pressure treated 2×6 @ 8′
  • 8 – pressure treated 2×4 @ 8′
  • 1 – pressure treated 2×8 @ 8′
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 8′
  • 3 1/2″ carriage bolts, washers and nuts
  • 5″ carriage bolts, washers and nuts
  • Exterior grade pocket hole screws

Tools Required

octagon picnic table - material colors

Step 1: Build the top

The top of this octagon picnic table starts with eight pieces of non-pressure treated 2×6 cut to 27″ on the long side. Each end should be cut at a 67 1/2° angle, so when the pieces are all assembled you get the outer frame of your octagon. Since you are cutting eight of these that need to be the same, I recommend gang cutting two at a time. Or you can create a jig with a stop block to ensure their uniformity. Use three pocket hole screws on the underside of each joint to hold the outer frame together.

Once the outer frame is assembled, you can move onto filling in the inside with more non-pressure treated 2x6s. You should be able to fit four 2x6s across the center with an 1/8″ gap in between each board. Use three pocket hole screws on each end of these boards to attach them to the frame. Then continue cutting the remaining boards with 45° angles on each end to fill in the rest of the top. Also leaving a 1/8″ gap in between boards and attaching with three pocket hole screws. Note, you will have to rip cut the last board down to about 4 1/2″ wide.

Step 2: Add the supports for the top

Once you have the table top built for this octagon picnic table you’ll need to add some support beams. There are three different variations of the pieces you’ll need to cut for these pressure treated 2×4 support beams:

  • 1 – 622″ 2×4
  • 2 – 30 1/4″ 2x4s
  • 4 – 30″ 2x4s, with one end cut to form a 90° point.

All seven of the above pieces should also have one end with a 45° cut in it to remove the sharp corner. This helps to keep people from banging their knees or thighs.

Start by attaching the 62″ piece using pocket hole screws every 6-8″, alternating sides with the hole. Next attach the 30 1/4″ pieces, centered on the 62″ piece. Again, use pocket hole screws every 6-8″ alternating sides. Finally, attach the 30″ pieces in the same manner.

Step 3: Cut and attach the legs.

The four leg pieces are going to be cut from pressure treated 2x6s. These are simple cuts at 60° on each end, so each side is 33″ long. Clamp the legs in place so they are 4″ in from the outer end of the top support beams. Make certain the legs across from each other are on the same side of the support beam. Pre-drill two holes through each leg and corresponding support beam, then attach using the 3 1/2″ carriage bolts.

Step 4: Seat support frame

For the seat support frames you are making two almost identical assemblies. The first consists of a pressure treated 2×4 cut to 95″, plus two additional 2×4 pieces cut to 43 3/4″. The second consists of another 95″ pressure treated 2×4, plus two additional 2×4 pieces cut to 46 3/4″. You can attach the shorter 2×4 pieces (the 43 3/4″ and the 46 3/4″ pieces) to the respective 95″ pieces by using 3″ exterior grade wood screws going through the 95″ pieces and into the ends of the shorter pieces. Just make certain you measure appropriately prior to attaching. One 2×4 should be in from the outer end of the 95″ piece 43 3/4″, while the other should be in 46 3/4″.

Attach the seat support frame to the four legs using two 5″ carriage bolts per leg. Remember to clamp the seat support frames in place, and pre-drill the holes first.

Step 5: Leg bases and seat supports

The next step in these octagon picnic table plans is the leg bases and seat supports. The leg bases are made from the pressure treated 2×8. Each of these bases is just a 23 1/2″ piece, with the outside corners cut off at 45° angles for visual effect. You will attach these to the legs using three 3″ exterior wood screws per leg. Remember that these are not going to be centered on the legs, as we want to account for the fact the legs are not centered on the table corners.

Add the seat supports to the leg bases, again use 3″ exterior wood screws from underneath. These should be aligned to the inside edge of the leg base.

Step 6: Add the bench seats

The bench seats are the last pieces to assemble in this build. They are made from non-pressure treated 2x6s. Since you’ll be making four of these, each with two sets of two identical pieces, it is best to gang cut them. Once you have the seat boards cut, assemble the adjoining boards using three pocket hole screws per joint. Then using 2 1/2″ wood screws to attach the 1×2 pieces that hold the seat boards together.

Once assembled, attach to the seat support frame and seat supports using 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws. You can screw from the top of the seat down into the support boards. Note again that the seat is not centered over the support frame. The seat should actually be centered over the 2×4 support beam that runs directly under the corner joint. This will allow the seat to line up perfectly with the corner of the table.

Step 7: Sand all corners and surfaces

Now that you have your octagon picnic table completely built, it’s time to sand all of the corners down to have a nice rounded over edge. While you’re at it, it’s also a good idea to give the seats and the top a good once over with 120 grit sand paper. We don’t want any of our party guests getting splinters!

Once you’re done the sanding, add a coat of stain to protect your new picnic table from the elements. You’ll want this piece to last for years to come!

We hope you enjoyed these octagon picnic table plans. As always, if you have any questions reach out to us via the Comments section below. And if you do build something based on any of our plans, we’d love for you to share your experience and some pictures with us through our Submit Your Build page.

* This post may have affiliate links, which means I may receive commissions if you choose to purchase through links I provide (at no extra cost to you). As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting the work I put into this site.

24 thoughts on “Octagon Picnic Table plans

  1. I would love to build this for a kids table. Do you have dimensions for a smaller version??

  2. Is it possible to put an umbrella hole in this or will it jeopardize the structure?

      1. you could by modifying the center and have a mini hexagon around the hole that connects all the boards. Might also have to had some extra support, but it is doable if you really need it.

  3. Is there a count for the quantity of fasteners needed? I am putting together my order and noticed that there isn’t a count for the carriage bolts or screws.

    1. Reading through the instructions, it would appear you’re supposed to have 8-5” carriage bolts and 8-3 1/2” carriage bolts. As for screws, I suppose it’s up to your discretion.

      1. Can you share the table top diameter apart from the seats? Perhaps it’s here and I simply haven’t looked closely enough yet – many thanks!

        1. Jim,
          The top diameter of this table, from corner to opposing corner is about 70 1/2″. If measuring across two parallel boards where people would actually sit, it is about 65 1/4″.

  4. On the first part is 67 1/2 the right angle? I cut the pieces at 27 inches but the angles don’t seem

    1. Billy,
      Yes, 67.5 (or 22.5, depending on how you look at it) is the angle you need to cut for the boards that make the outside of the octagon

    1. JoAnn.
      I think that would depend more on the strength of the plastic lumber, and availability of the different sizes. I only have a very limited exposure to different plastic lumbers, but what I have seen seems to be able to be a 1-for-1 replacement for solid wood.

  5. Why is the top not treated wood? Is there a reason? Ours would be in the elements year round in North Dakota, so wondering about durability through that…

    1. Treated wood is generally not food safe. You are correct in that it will weather faster being non treated, but you can utilize natural oils to help prolong the table top life. I use Teak oil on my cedar table every year and it is going strong, with almost no signs of cracking, seven years in.

  6. Love this plan but the size is too large for my patio. The kids plan is too small for an adult. Do you have something in between?

    1. John, yes. From a structural standpoint, you don’t really want more than a 16″ span being unsupported when using a 1×6. So the inner boards should all be fine if using 1x6s. However the outer boards are 27″, so you would need to have more support for them if going with a 1×6.

  7. I haven’t done pocket holes before, and just watched a how-to video that advised against doing them on wood as wide as 6″ as the expansion might lead to splitting. I live in an semi-arid climate and wonder… I sure want to try the pocket hole jig!

  8. Brian, I love your design. Is it also possible to convert it to centimeters? So we can use it on the other side of the world. I already tried it myself, but it didn’t go as planned. The materials needed with us have also other dimensions, such as:

    2×4 @ 8′ = 4.4 x 9.4 x 250 cm
    2×6 @ 8′ = 4.4 x 14.4 x 250 cm
    2×8 @ 8′ = 6.9 x 19.4 x 250 cm

Questions or Comments? Let us know your thoughts:

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.