Another request for a custom size of our very popular sliding door console plans; this one is 72″ wide, 48″ high, and 24″ deep. This version is a much taller version, standard at a full 4 feet high instead of the standard 3 feet. Looking for more options for sliding door consoles? Then check out one of our other sliding door console plans.

Materials:

• 2 – 2×8 at 6 feet long (top)
• 1 – 2×10 at 6 feet long (top)
• 3 – 1×6 at 6 feet long (shelf)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ thick plywood or hardboard (for back)
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ thick plywood (for the door)
• 3 – 1×2 @ 6 feet long (trim)
• 5 – 1×4 @ 6 feet long (face frame)
• 6 – 2×3 @ 6 feet long (or 2x4s ripped to 2 1/2″ instead of 3 1/2″ wide)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood (for the sides and floor)
• Wood screws
• Nails
• Hardware for sliding doors – You can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own.  I made my own for my rustic barn wood dog crate.

Tools:

• Saw: circular, miter, and/or table saw.
• Drill / Driver
• Nail Gun or hammer
• Kreg jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Wood Glue (I’m a fan of Titebond)

Step 1: Build the upper and lower frames

Start by assembling your assembling your upper and lower frames.  These are made out of 2x3s, and are identical.  Instead of trying to find 2x3s, I almost always start with standard construction 2x4s, and rip 1/2″ off of each long edge to cut them down to the desired 1 1/2″ by 2 1/2″ final dimensions.

Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws for all joints.

Step 2: Add the plywood sides

Cut your two sides from the 3/4″ plywood sheet.  These are each 46 1/2″ high, by 22 1/2″ wide. Note that these will be 1/4″ wider than the frames so that you can let that 1/4″ overhang the back edge and will conceal the outer edges of the back panels we’ll add later.

I like using 16 gauge nails and wood glue. The glue itself, if applied correctly, will provide a much stronger bond than any mechanical fastener.  So the nails are really just holding it in place until the glue dries.

Note: Now is a good time to check to ensure the piece is square, before moving onto the face frame.

Step 3: Attach the face frame

The entire face frame is made out of 1 x 4 boards. All of the pieces can be attached together using either biscuits, pocket screws, or mortise and tenon joinery.  Just remember, if you plan on using mortise and tenon joinery, you are going to have to cut your boards longer than the measurements shown in the diagram below.

Step 4: Console floor and shelf

These sliding door console plans use a 22 1/2 x 69″ piece of 3/4″ plywood for the bottom shelf.  Wood glue and a few finish nails can hold this in place.

The four 18 1/2″ vertical shelf supports, made from 1x2s, are glued and attached to the backs of the face frame.  The two outer ones should be pushed flush to the cabinet sides, while the two middle ones are centered on the face frame boards.

The shelf in these sliding door console plans consists of three 1×8s cut to 69″ in length and then held together by the five horizontal shelf supports made from 1x2s. Note that you may have to shave approximately a 1/4″ off of one of the 1x8s to allow them to fit into the given space. When building, make certain the horizontal shelf supports are aligned over the vertical supports installed on the last step. The shelf should be resting on the horizontal supports, not the shelf boards.

Once the shelf is in place in the cabinet, attach the outer horizontal shelf supports to the cabinet sides using 1 1/4″ wood screws or nails.

Step 5: Rip and attach plywood back planking

When you are ready to install the back planking, you have two options:

1. Make all of the planks the exact same, which means cutting eleven boards at 4 5/16″, or
2. Make the boards varying widths for a more rustic/reclaimed look.

In either case, you will install them the same.  Use wood glue and nails (or staples) at the top and bottom of each board to attach to the frames, and also secure the middle of the planks to the middle shelf to provide more structural integrity to the entire piece.

Note: it’s also a good practice to ensure the back of the piece is still square before you start attaching the planks.

Step 6: Console Top

The next step is attaching the top.  This consists of the two 2×8 boards and one 2×10 board. To achieve an actual depth of 24″, you’ll need to rip 1/4″ off of one of these boards, though I doubt anyone will notice that extra 1/4″ if you don’t.   Align them flush with the back of the piece, and overhanging each side by 3/4″.   To hide the fasteners, use a Kreg jig and pocket screws from underneath going through the upper frame.  Alternatively, you could use 4″ wood screws going straight up through the upper frame as well.  For the second method, I definitely recommend pre-drilling the holes and even countersinking them to better hide the screw heads.

Step 7: Bottom Trim

The bottom trim is made of 1×2 stock, cut with 45 degree miters.  Simply glue and nail it on.

Step 8: Door and sliders

The simplest way to build the door is to start by cutting two 16 3/4″ × 41 1/2″ pieces of 1/2″ plywood, and then laying 1 1/2″ plywood strips around the edges and in an X pattern.  Though how you build the door is really what will add your custom touch to this piece, so feel free to experiment.  Just remember to keep them at the proper finished dimensions.

After you have your doors built, you just need to attach it to your barn door sliders and your console is ready for finishing.  Again, you can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own.  I really enjoy making my own because it definitively gives a more rustic or antique feel to the piece.

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