Here is another version of our very popular 60″ Grandy sliding door console design. This version is a 60″ sliding door console with wine display storage in the center and two door.

Materials:

• 2 – 2×10 at 6 feet long
• 1 – 1×8 at 6 feet long (or 2 if you want the floor to be boards instead of plywood)
• 1 – 1×10 at 6 feet long (or 2 if you want the floor to be boards instead of plywood)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ thick plywood or hardboard (for back)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
• 3 – 1×2 @ 6 feet long
• 4 – 1×4 @ 6 feet long
• 6 – 2×3 @ 6 feet long (or 2x4s ripped down to size)
• 6 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
• Wood screws
• Nails
• Hardware for sliding doors – You can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own. I made my own for my rustic barn wood dog crate.

Tools:

• Saw: circular, miter, and/or table saw.
• Drill / Driver
• Nail Gun or hammer
• Kreg jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Wood glue

Cut List:

• 2x3s
  • 4 @ 54″
  • 4 @ 17 “
  • 4 @ 14″
• 3/4″ plywood
  • 2 @ 36 x 17 1/4″
  • 1 @ 17 x 57″
• 1/2″ plywood
  • 2 @ 17 x 30 1/4″
  • 2 @ 19 x 30″
  • 4 @ 30 x 1 1/2″
  • 4 @ 16 x 1 1/2″
  • 2 @ 35 x 1 1/2″
  • 4 @ 16 x 1 1/2″
• 1/4″ plywood
  • 11 @ 36 x 7 1/8″
• 1 x 4s
  • 2 @ 36″
  • 2 @ 51 1/2″
• 1 x 3s
  • 2 @ 29″
  • 12 @ 24 1/2″
  • 8 @ 16 5/64″
  • 8 @ 7 43/64″
• 1 x 2s
  • 3 @ 14″
  • 3 @ 17″
  • 2 @ 18 3/4″ (mitered one end)
  • 1 @ 60″ (mitered both ends)
• 1 x 8
  • 2 @ 19″
• 1 x 10
  • 2 @ 19″
• 2 x 10s
  • 2 @ 60″

Step 1: Build the upper and lower frames

Start by assembling your assembling your upper and lower frames. These are made out of 2x3s, and are identical. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws for all joints. The supports in the middle are each 14″ wide, and should be spaced 17″ apart – but they don’t have to be precise since they will be hidden in the final design

Step 2: Add the plywood sides

Cut your two sides from the 3/4″ plywood sheet. These are each 36″ high, by 17 1/4″ wide. Note that these will be 1/4″ wider than the frames so that you can let that 1/4″ overhang the back edge and will conceal the outer edges of the back panels we’ll add later.

I like using 16 gauge nails and wood glue. The glue itself, if applied correctly, will provide a much stronger bond than any mechanical fastener. So the nails are really just holding it in place until the glue dries.

Note: Now is a good time to check to ensure the piece is square, before moving onto the face frame.

Step 3: Attach the face frame

The face frame is made out of 1×4 boards for the outside, and unlike our other sliding door consoles I designed this version with 1×3 boards for the inner stiles. Note that the inner stiles are also intentionally moved outward to allow for a slightly bigger bay in the center.

Use either mortise and tenon joints, or pocket hole screws to attach. Remember, if you’re using mortise and tenon joinery you’ll need to cut your pieces longer than shown in the diagram below.

Step 4: Floor and interior walls

Cut a 17×57″ piece of 3/4″ plywood (or a 1×8 and a 1×10 if you prefer) for the floor. Cut two pieces of 1/2″ plywood to 30 1/4″ x 17″ for the inner walls. Attach with wood glue and screws to the floor piece prior to installing the floor. Then use wood glue and a few nails to hold the floor in place and a few brad nails through the inner stiles of the face frame to hold the walls vertical.

The four 14″ vertical shelf supports, made from 1x2s, are glued and attached to the backs of the face frame. The two outer ones should be pushed flush to the cabinet sides, while the two middle ones are centered on the face frame boards.

Step 5: Build and attach the shelf supports and shelves

The outer two shelf supports are cut from a 1×2, as are the inner two shelf supports – but you only need to cut three of the vertical and three of the horizontal pieces. After you have all six pieces cut, take one of the the vertical and one of the horizontal pieces and rip them in half so you wind up with two of each for the inner shelf supports. Use wood glue and finish nails to hold all eight pieces in place.

The shelves in these sliding door console with wine display plans consists of a 1×8 and a 1×10 each cut to two pieces 19″ in length. Use wood glue and finish nails to attach to the horizontal shelf support pieces.

Step 6: Building the wine racks

The wine display rack is probably the most intricate piece portion of this sliding door console with wine display – and it’s not that difficult if you take your time with your layout. Start with your 1×3 stock and cut into the following pieces

• 12 @ 24 1/2″ long
• 8 @ 16 5/64″ long
• 8 @ 7 43/64″ long

Now, in each of those, starting from one end you’re going to mark a line at 3 29/64″ in, and then mark a second line 3/4″ from that. Then repeat the process for the length of the board. If measured properly, your last line from 3/4″ should be exactly 3 29/64″ from the other end of the board.

Once you have your lines laid out, it’s time to cut the notches to 1 1/4″ deep (half the width of the boards). The easiest way to do this is on the table saw with a dado blade. Using a box joint or finger joint jig to ensure the “teeth” are all 3 29/64″ wide makes it even easier. Alternatively, a handsaw and a sharp chisel work just fine.

After cutting all of the notches, you should be able to lay out to copies of the pattern below using halved joints. Wood glue should be all you need to hold this wine display rack together. After the glue dries, slide both racks into the console from the back and set to the desired depth. Tack them in place with finish nails in the corners.

Step 7: Rip and attach plywood back planking

When you are ready to install the back planking, you have two options:

1. Make all of the planks the exact same, which means cutting eleven boards at 7 1/8″, or
2. Make the boards varying widths for a more rustic/reclaimed look.

In either case, you will install them the same. Use wood glue and nails (or staples) at the top and bottom of each board to attach to the frames, and also secure the middle of the planks to the middle shelf to provide more structural integrity to the entire piece.

Note: it’s also a good practice to ensure the back of the piece is still square before you start attaching the planks.

Step 8: Trim out the console with wine display

The bottom trim is made of 1×2 stock that is standing on the narrower edge, cut with 45 degree miters. Simply glue and nail it on.

Step 9: Top

The next step is attaching the top. This consists of the two 2×10 boards, cut down to 60″. Align them flush with the back of the piece, and overhanging each side by 3/4″. To hide the fasteners, use a Kreg jig and pocket screws from underneath going through the upper frame. Alternatively, you could use 4″ wood screws going straight up through the upper frame as well. For the second method, I definitely recommend pre-drilling the holes and even countersinking them to better hide the screw heads.

Step 9: Door and sliders

The simplest way to build the door is to start by cutting two 19×30″ piece of 1/2″ plywood, and then laying 1 or 1 1/2″ strips around the edges and in an X pattern. Though how you build the door is really what will add your custom touch to this piece, so feel free to experiment. Just remember to keep it at 19×30″.

After you have your door built, you just need to attach it to your barn door sliders and your sliding door console with wine display is ready for finishing. Again, you can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own. I really enjoy making my own because it definitively gives a more rustic or antique feel to the piece.

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