By request, here is a 24″ high version of our very popular 60″ Grandy sliding door console design. This sliding door console may be shorter in stature than some of our other consoles, but the build is mostly the same. It’s all made using basic construction lumber and plywood available at your local big box store. Plus it only requires a few standard tools that the average DIYer might already own.

Materials:

• 2 – 2×10 at 6 feet long
• 1 – 1×8 at 6 feet long
• 1 – 1×10 at 6 feet long
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ thick plywood or hardboard (for back)
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
• 3 – 1×2 @ 6 feet long
• 4 – 1×4 @ 6 feet long
• 6 – 2×3 @ 6 feet long (or 2x4s ripped down to size)
• 6 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
• Wood screws
• Nails
• Hardware for sliding doors – You can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own. I made my own for my rustic barn wood dog crate.

Tools:

• Saw: circular, miter, and/or table saw.
• Drill / Driver
• Nail Gun or hammer
• Kreg jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Wood glue

Step 1: Build the upper and lower frames

Start by assembling your assembling your upper and lower frames. These are made out of 2x3s, and are identical. If you can’t find 2x3s, use 2x4s and rip 1/2″ off of each edge to get them down to the desired 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ final size. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws for all joints. The supports in the middle are each 14″ wide, and should be spaced 17″ apart. You want to ensure these are spaced properly so you can attach the middle walls to them.

Step 2: Add the plywood sides

Cut your two sides from the 3/4″ plywood sheet. These are each 22 1/2″ high, by 17 1/4″ wide. Note that these will be 1/4″ wider than the frames so that you can let that 1/4″ overhang the back edge and will conceal the outer edges of the back panels we’ll add later.

I like using 16 gauge nails and wood glue. The glue itself, if applied correctly, will provide a much stronger bond than any mechanical fastener. So the nails are really just holding it in place until the glue dries.

Note: Now is a good time to check to ensure the piece is square, before moving onto the face frame.

Step 3: Floor and interior walls

Cut a 17×57″ piece of 3/4″ plywood for the floor. Cut two pieces of 1/2″ plywood to 30 1/4″ x 17″ for the inner walls. Attach with wood glue and screws to the floor piece prior to installing the floor in the main unit.

Slide the floor and walls in place and use nails to secure the floor in place. Add 2 or 3 finish nails through the tops of each inner wall to toenail the walls in place temporarily

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Step 4: Build and attach the shelf supports and shelves

Cut two 7 1/2″ vertical shelf supports from 1x2s. Glue and attach these flush to the front edge of the outer walls. Then cut the two outer shelf supports from a 1×2. Cut the inner two shelf supports from a single 1×2, and then rip it in half to create two 3/4″ x 3/4″ pieces 17″ long. Use wood glue and nails to attach all four shelf supports 7 1/2″ up on the respective walls. The fronts of the outer shelf supports should rest on the vertical supports

The shelves in this sliding door console consists of a 1×8 and a 1×10 each cut to two pieces 19″ in length. Use wood glue and finish nails to attach to the horizontal shelf support pieces. These shelves will help hold the inner walls in place.

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Step 5: Attach the face frame

The face frame is made out of 1×4 boards for the outside, and 1×3 boards for the inner stiles. Note that the inner stiles are also intentionally moved outward to allow for a slightly bigger bay in the center. Use pocket hole screws and wood glue to attach all of these boards together.

Finally add a few nails through the inner stiles of the face frame into the inner walls to hold them in place.

Step 6: Rip and attach plywood back planking

When you are ready to install the back planking, you have two options:

1. Make all of the planks the exact same, which means cutting eleven boards at 7 1/8″, or
2. Make the boards varying widths for a more rustic/reclaimed look.

In either case, you will install them the same. Use wood glue and nails (or staples) at the top and bottom of each board to attach to the frames, and also secure the middle of the planks to the middle shelf to provide more structural integrity to the entire piece.

Note: it’s also a good practice to ensure the back of the piece is still square before you start attaching the planks.

Step 7: Add the top

The next step is attaching the top. This consists of the two 2×10 boards, cut down to 60″. Align them flush with the back of the piece, and overhanging each side by 3/4″. To hide the fasteners, use a Kreg jig and pocket screws from underneath going through the upper frame. Alternatively, you could use 4″ wood screws going straight up through the upper frame as well. For the second method, I definitely recommend pre-drilling the holes and even countersinking them to better hide the screw heads.

Step 8: Trim out the console with some 1x2s

The bottom trim is made of 1×2 stock that is standing on the narrower edge, cut with 45 degree miters. Simply glue and nail it on.

Step 9: Door and sliders

The simplest way to build the door is to start by cutting two 19×16 1/2″ pieces of 1/2″ plywood, and then laying 1 or 1 1/2″ strips around the edges and in an X pattern. Though how you build the door is really what will add your custom touch to this piece, so feel free to experiment.

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After you have your door built, you just need to attach it to your barn door sliders and your sliding door console is ready for finishing. Again, you can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own. I really enjoy making my own because it definitively gives a more rustic or antique feel to the piece.

If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below. We love the feedback! Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

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