Here are some desk cabinet plans, designed for each cabinet to be 18″ wide x 24″ deep x 26″ high, and the overall desk size to be 72″ wide x 27″ deep x 27.5″ high. These measurements put the desk height slightly less than the height of a standard dining table, but make for a comfortable sitting height for a person under 5′ 6″. These desk cabinet plans also allow a roomy 42″ between the cabinets, so the user has plenty of room to rotate left and right.
These desk cabinet plans are also designed without doors or drawers, but it would be easy enough to add either or both if you wanted to match other cabinets in your house or office.
Materials
- 3 – 2×10 at 6′
- 1 – 4 x 8 sheet 3/4″ plywood
- 1 – 4 x 8 sheet 1/2″ plywood
- 3 – 1 1/2″ x 3/4″ poplar at 6 feet
Tools
- Table saw, or circular saw with a track or similar guide.
- Router or a dado blade for your table saw
- Jig saw or hand saw
- 28″ (or longer) parallel clamps (I really prefer Bessey clamps)
- Brad Nailer
- Kreg jig
- Wood glue
- Sander and sandpaper
Step 1: Cut the plywood pieces
For these desk cabinet plans, I actually like to start by cutting the shelves, top, and back – the components made from 1/2″ plywood.
- 2 Shelves – 16 1/2″ x 21 1/4″
- Top – 17 1/4″ x 23 1/4″
- Back – 17 1/4″ x 25 1/2″
Then cut the pieces made from the 3/4″ plywood, the sides, bottom shelf, and toe kick
- 2 Sides – 23 1/4″ x 26″ (you’ll cut out the toe kick cutout in step 2)
- Bottom Shelf – 17 1/4″ x 22 3/4″
- Toe Kick – 16 1/2″ x 5 1/8″
Step 2: Cut out the toe kick on the side panels
To make these cabinets look like lower cabinets from your kitchen, we need to cut out a notch to accommodate the toe kick. For this, we’re going to cut a 2 1/4″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle out of each side panel’s bottom corner. At this point you can choose any corner to be the bottom corner – but remember to mark and cut the 4 1/2″ length along the 26″ long side of the panel.
Use a circular saw or table saw to start each of these cuts, but do not go all of the way to the corner of your mark or you’ll wind up cutting a slot past the mark due to the circumference of the blade. Stop about an inch short and then finish the cut with either a jig saw or a hand saw. You can clean up that last 1″ with sand paper after you’re done cutting.
Step 3: Cut the rabbets and dados in the side panels
Now that you are done with your straight cuts, it’s time to move onto the dados and the rabbets. Waiting until you have all of the straight cuts done means you only have to change your table saw blade one time. If you are using a router instead, you can put your table saw away because you are done with it.
For these desk cabinet plans, we’re only making dados and rabbets on the side panels. Note that even though we’re using 1/2″ and 3/4″ plywood, the actual thicknesses are slightly less than those measurements so you’ll want to ensure to test your dado stack on scrap wood prior to making the cuts on your side panels.
We’re going to start by doing the 3/4″ dado, 3/8″ deep, up 5 1/8″ from the bottom edge of each panel. Note that you need to ensure the boards are oriented in opposite directions so that you are putting the dados and rabbets on the inside of each panel.
Then if you have a sacrificial fence on your table saw (see photo below), cover 1/4″ of the dado stack with the sacrificial fence so that you have 1/2″ exposed to cut the rabbets on the tops and backs. Then rabbet out the entire length of the top edge and the back edge of each side panel. Make certain you are doing the same side as the dado you just cut!
Step 4: Drill the shelf holes
The last step to do before assembly is to drill out the shelf holes. I highly recommend making a template first to ensure all of your holes are perfectly aligned. Using a template for your shelf holes also helps save time from having to measure every hole.
I used a scrap piece of 1/8″ MDF I happened to have laying around the shop. I trimmed it down to size (3″ wide), then drew a line 1″ in from one edge. I then marked holes every 1 1/2″ along that line. For the front of the cabinets, I recessed the shelf holes 2″ (3″ wide MDF, minus 1″ line from the edge, equals 2″) to allow for fascia to be added to my shelves if desired. For the backs, I used the 1″ side of the template from the inside edge of the rabbet. Make certain you’re drilling your holes on the inside of each panel. Also be certain to set a stop on your drill bit no more than 1/2″ deep so you don’t go all of the way through the side panel.
TIP: I like to put a coat of paint on the inside of the cabinets BEFORE I drill out the shelf holes. This helps ensure they don’t get filled with paint later. You may also want to go ahead and paint the insides of the top and bottom shelf as well, as it is easier to do so now than after you have everything assembled.
Step 5: Case assembly
Now that you have all of the case pieces cut and prepped, it’s time to assemble them. Start by gluing your bottom in the dado, and the top in the rabbet as shown in the picture below. Align all of the front edges.
Make certain to use a good amount of wood glue, as that is what will provide long term strength. Brad nails can be used to help provide some temporary support as well, but it is really the glue that provides the long term strength.
Then glue and brad nail on the back, ensuring that the entire case is square. Use clamps or straps to hold it all in place while the glue dries.
Attach the toe kick board by using pocket screws from the inside. Alternatively, you can put glue on the edges of the toe kick and brad nail through the outsides of the cabinet sides.
Step 6: Build and attach face frames
Face frames are pretty straightforward to build. Use 1 1/2″ x 3/4″ hard wood, like poplar (which paints really well). Cut your pieces to size, and then use wood glue and pocket screws to build the frame first. Once assembled, put a bead of glue around the entire front of the case you built and then use brad nails to hold the face frame in place while the glue dries.
Step 7: Attach the desk top boards
In these desk cabinet plans, we used three 2×10 boards, cut down to 72″ for the top. Edge join these together with wood glue and pocket screws – if you plan carefully, you only need to have pocket screws where they’ll be hidden by the cabinets.
Then just a few 1 1/2″ screws up from inside each cabinet should hold the top in place.
Step 8. Finish as you wish
After attaching your desk top boards, the only thing left to do is apply whatever finish you choose for your cabinets and then put in the shelves. Though if you’re going to do different finishes on the cabinets than on the desk top, we’d recommend doing the finishing before attaching the desk top.
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