This version of our sliding door console plans is designed to be a console for a mini-fridge. It does not require any complicated cuts, and you can probably have your local big box store make the limited cuts needed for the plywood pieces. Everything else can be accomplished with a basic miter saw or circular saw.

Materials:

• 1 – 1×10 @ 6′ (for the floor)
• 1 – 1×10 @ 4′ (for the shelf)
• 1 – 1×12 @ 6′ (for the floor)
• 1 – 1×12 @ 4′ (for the shelf)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ thick plywood or hardboard (for back)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ thick plywood (for the sides and inner wall)
• 5 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long (for trim, door, and shelf supports)
• 7 – 1×4 @ 10 feet long (doors and face frame)
• 5 – 2x4s @ 8 feet long (for frame)
• 2 – 2×12 @ 6 feet long (for top)
• Wood screws
• Nails
• Hardware for sliding doors – You can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own.  I made my own for my rustic barn wood dog crate.

Tools:

• Saws: Circular or miter
• Drill / Driver
• Nail Gun or hammer
• Kreg jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Wood Glue (I’m a fan of Titebond)

Step 1: Build the upper and lower frames

Start by assembling your assembling your upper and lower frames.  We’re designing this console to use 2x4s for the frame – but they need to each have 3/4″ ripped off of them, so they are a final dimension of 1 1/2″ x 2 3/4″.  You will need to make two frames, noting they are slightly different. Since this is a console for a mini-fridge we’re adding an extra cross brace. We also want to space the cross braces on the bottom frame 16″ on center, when starting from the right. This is to ensure we support that mini-fridge. For the top frame, make certain the right cross brace is 22 1/2″ from the right side so that we can attach the interior wall to it. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws for all joints.

Step 2: Add the plywood sides

Cut your two sides from the 3/4″ plywood sheet.  These are each 40 1/2″ high, by 21″ wide. Note that these will be 1/4″ wider than the frames so that you can let that 1/4″ overhang the back edge and will conceal the outer edges of the back panels we’ll add later.

I like using 16 gauge nails and wood glue. The glue itself, if applied correctly, will provide a much stronger bond than any mechanical fastener.  So the nails are really just holding it in place until the glue dries.

Note: Now is a good time to check to ensure the piece is square, before moving onto the face frame.

Step 3: Attach the face frame

The face frame for this sliding door console for a mini-fridge is made out of 1 x 4 boards.   I prefer to actually build mine like an actual cabinet face, using mortise and tenon joints; but you can also use pocket hole screws from the backside.

Once you have the face frame assembled, use wood glue and 16 or 18 gauge nails to nail it to the frames and sides. At this point you unit should be square, and stable.

Step 4: Floor and interior wall

We’re going to use one 1×12 and one 1×10 for the floor of the sliding door console. Use wood glue and a few nails to secure the floor in place.

For the interior wall, we’re going to cut a 20 3/4″ x 34 1/4″ piece of 3/4″ plywood. You’ll want to position this 24″ from the inside of the right wall. This should leave 1 1/2″ on the left side of the middle stile of the face frame to attach the shelf support in the next step.

To attach the interior wall you can use four pocket hole screws at the top (from the mini-fridge side) and either four more pocket hole screws at the bottom, or nail up through the floor with 16 gauge brad nails.

Step 5: Add the shelf

Next add the two16 1/2″ vertical shelf supports, made from 1x2s. These are glued and attached to the backs of the face frame.  They should be pushed flush to the cabinet side and interior wall as shown in the pictures below.

The middle shelf is made from one 1×12 and one 1×10 both cut to 44 3/16″ in length. Attach the 20 3/4″ outer horizontal shelf supports to the plywood sides using 1 1/4″ wood screws or nails. Then lay the shelf boards across the horizontal supports.

Note that 44″ is a somewhat long span for shelves of this thickness to go unsupported. If you are planning on placing heavy items on these shelves, you may want to consider either adding a dividing wall underneath the shelf to provide support in the center, or switching to thicker shelf material.

Step 6: Add plywood back

For this version of the sliding door console, we are using a single solid sheet of 1/4″ plywood for the back. Cut this piece to 40 1/2 high by 69″ wide. Use wood glue and nails (or staples) at the top and bottom to attach to the frames, and also secure the middle of the plywood to the shelf and inner wall to provide more structural integrity to the entire piece.

Step 7: Bottom Trim

The bottom trim is made of 1×2 stock, cut with 45 degree miters.  Simply glue and nail it on.

Step 8: Top

The next step is attaching the top.  This consists of the two 2×12 boards, cut down to 72″.   Align them flush with the back of the piece, and overhanging each side by 3/4″.   To hide the fasteners, use a Kreg jig and pocket screws from underneath going through the upper frame.  Alternatively, you could use 16 or 18 gauge nails and wood glue straight down through the top. The small holes from the nails should be easy to fill with wood filler.

Step 9: Door and sliders

Each of the two doors consists of 6 pieces of 1×4 cut to 35 1/2″ in length. Using wood glue and pocket screws is the easiest way to connect these boards along their edges. After the 1x4s are connected, use 1x2s to create a frame and an X pattern on top of the 1x4s. Use wood glue and 16 or 18 gauge nails to attach the 1x2s. 

After you have your door built, you just need to attach it to your barn door sliders and your console is ready for finishing.  Again, you can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own.  I really enjoy making my own because it definitively gives a more rustic or antique feel to the piece.

If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below.  We love the feedback!  Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

After your done building something inspired by any of our plans we’d love for you to share your results by submitting your build.

* This post may have affiliate links, which means I may receive commissions if you choose to purchase through links I provide (at no extra cost to you). As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting the work I put into this site.