This version of our caned king headboard plans are designed to be built with 4/4 boards, the kind you typically get from a lumber yard as 5/4 and then plane down to the final 1″ width yourself, as the primary components. This is in contrast to our version built with solid 3″x3″ boards, and another version designed using standard dimensional 1×4 lumber bought from a big box store. We’re also building this headboard using classic blind mortise and tenon joinery, but the plans could easily be adapted to use other types of joinery based on your comfort level. Using multiple boards instead of a solid 3×3, makes the mortise and tenons a bit easier as you can create dados on your table saw instead of needing to chisel mortises.

Tools Required:

• Table saw and miter saw
• Planer
• Sander and sandpaper
• Drill/Driver
• Tape measure
• Brad nailer
• Staple gun & 1/2” staples
• Lots of clamps for the board glue ups.
• 90° clamping jigs
• Square

Materials List:

• 1″ x 3″ hardwood boards
  • 2 at 80 1/2″ with 45° miter on both ends
  • 2 at 80 1/2″ square on both ends
  • 2 at 74 1/2″ square on both ends
  • 1 at 76 1/2″ square on both ends
  • 4 at 50″ with 45° miter on one end
  • 2 at 47″ square on both ends
  • 2 at 24″ square on both ends
  • 1 at 26″ square on both ends
• 8 – 72” pieces of 1/2” trim
• 3 – 96” pieces of 1 1/2” x 1/2”
• 4 – 30” x 40” caning
• Wood screws
• Wood Glue

Step 1: Cut the cross beam and middle support boards

The first step we’re going to complete in these caned headboard plans is cutting and gluing up the boards that make up the cross beam and the middle support. The cross beam is the singular 76 1/2” board sandwiched in between the two 74 1/2″ boards with a 1″ exposure on each end to make up what will be the 1″ tenon. Before gluing up the the three boards, you’ll want to cut 1/2″x1″ shoulders on each end, these will allow the tenon to be better hidden in the final piece. You’ll also need to cut a 1″ deep x 2″ wide dado in the middle of the board to accept the tenon from the middle support.

The middle support is the 26” length, with similar 1/2″x1″ shoulders cut on both ends, sandwiched between the two 24″ lengths. I recommend creeping up on the final width of the cuts to make the shoulders so you can ensure the tenon fits snug into the mortise cut in the cross beam. You’ll use wood glue to attach these two boards. Use 90° clamping jigs to ensure the middle support is perfectly square off of the cross beam.

Step 2: Build the legs and connect them to the cross beam

Next we’re going to cut and glue up the legs, and attach the cross beam. You’ll build two legs for this caned king headboard, each being built the same. On the two 47″ boards, you’ll need to cut another 2″ wide by 1″ deep dado, with the bottom side being 20 1/2″ up from what will be the bottom end of the board. Make certain the mortises are cut so the corresponding tenons in the cross beam are snug. Then glue one 50” length on each side of the 47″ length, ensuring the 45° miters are on the same end and facing in the same direction as the dado you cut.

Use wood glue and 90° clamping jigs to attach the cross beam to the legs.

Step 3: Add the top board

The next step in creating this caned king headboard is to cut and attach the top board. This is another set of glued up boards cut to 80 1/2” in length, with non-parallel 45° miters cut on each end of the outside two. The middle board is also cut to 80 1/2″ but both ends are square. This board also needs a 1” x 1/2″ mortise cut in the center, similar to the cross beam. Use wood glue to attach the top board to the legs, plus more wood glue on the tenon.

Step 4: Add the nailer strips

Now that the frame of this caned king headboard is compete, let’s add the hardwood nailer strips to the inside. These nailer strips are 1 1/2” wide x 1/2” high pieces. Use wood glue and brad nails to attach them, centered on the 3x3s. This should leave a 3/4” lip on both sides of the nailer strips.

Step 5: Caning and trim

The last construction step on these plans is to attach the caning and the trim. I like to use caning that is oversized so that I can stretch it taught while stapling it in place, though you can buy rolls of caning 24” in width, which eliminates the need to have to cut the caning after it is secured. Use staples all around the caning to attach it to the nailer strip, then use wood glue and brad nails to attach the trim to hide the staples.

Now that the construction of this king caned headboard is complete, it is time for sanding and finishing.

If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below. We love the feedback! Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

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