Are you ready to elevate your woodworking game to another new level? Building a pocket hole jig station might just be the game-changer you’ve been looking for! A portable, dedicated pocket hole jig station is more than just a workspace; it’s a woodworking powerhouse that brings precision, efficiency, and organization to your projects. In this post, we’ll guide you through the plans to build your very own pocket hole jig station.

A pocket hole jig station serves as a specialized hub for your joinery tasks, making your workshop more efficient and your projects more precise. With a dedicated station, you’ll have everything you need at your fingertips—no more searching for clamps, bits, or screws scattered around the shop. This organization leads to faster setup times and ensures that each pocket hole is drilled with perfect alignment and consistency. Additionally, by securing your jig in a level work surface, you maintain a consistent height and stability, reducing errors and enhancing safety. The result? Reducing overall project completion time and creating more consitent joints that give your projects a professional finish through a streamlined workflow that allows you to focus on the craft rather than the clutter. Building a pocket hole jig station isn’t just about adding another tool—it’s about transforming the way you work, making each project smoother and more satisfying.

These particular pocket hole jig station plans are designed specifically for the Kreg K4 pocket hole jig. If you have a different pocket hole jig, you can adapt these plans to fit the dimensions of your jig. One particularly unique thing about these plans is that we use the space of the riser blocks under the pocket hole jig to store the drill, driver, and allen wrench using rare earth magnets. This puts these pieces at your fingertips instead of inside the storage boxes. Using the rare earth magnets ensures they are securely held in place when you are moving the jig around.

Materials Needed / Cut list

• 1 – 35 1/2″ x 10 5/8″ sheet of 1/2″ plywood (or 3/4″ if you prefer, but the 1/2″ is lighter for easier portability)
• 2 – 14″ x 10 5/8″ sheets of 1/2″ plywood
• 7 – 2″ x 9 2/8″ pieces of 1/2″ plywood
• 2 – 2″ x 14″ pieces of 1/2″ plywood
• 2 – 2″ x 14″ pieces of 3/4″ plywood
• 2 – 10 5/8″ pieces of 1 x 4
• 4 – 1 3/4″ wood screws
• 4 – 2″ wood screws
• wood glue
• Epoxy (for securing the magnets)
• 12 – 1/4″ diameter rare earth magnets
• 1 – Kreg K4 pocket hole jig
• 4 – small brass hinges
• 4 – small latches

Tools Needed

• Table saw
• Router
  • Straight top bearing bit for trimming lids flush
  • 1/2″ core box bit for routing the grooves in the riser blocks
• Drill / driver combo
  • Countersink bit
  • 1/4″ Forstner bit (for the holes for magnets)
• Trim nailer
• Small chisel (for recessing the hinges)
• Various clamps are helpful

Step1: Pocket hole jig station back board and riser

We’ll start this pocket hole jig station by cutting the plywood back board, and then milling and attaching the riser blocks. The back is simply a piece of either 1/2″ or 3/4″ plywood, cut to 10 5/8″ x 35 1/2″. One end of the board is going to extend past the storage compartments, this is so you can drill and route a hand hold for carrying and hanging. You want the handle to be about 1″ in from the edge, about 1″ in width, and 5″ long. This should give you comfortable dimensions for your hand, but feel free to adjust if your hand is bigger or smaller.

The riser blocks themselves are simply two pieces of 1 x 4, cut to 10 5/8″ in length. The grooves and magnets in the riser blocks make this jig somewhat unique. We’re going to use this space for storing our drill and driver bits, and the allen wrench that comes with the pocket hole jig. We only show putting the magnets on one end, but you can easily add some to both ends, doubling the amount of storage. These grooves are cut using a 1/2″ core box bit on a table top router. Make certain the grooves line up when you stack the boards! Once you have the grooves routed, drill two 1/8″ deep holes in each groove using the 1/4″ Forstner bit. Test fit the magnets to ensure they are just slightly lower than the groove surface. Then use the epoxy to secure the magnets.

Once the riser blocks are milled, and the epoxy has dried, use four 1 3/4″ wood screws to secure the rise blocks 14″ from the non-handled end of the plywood back board. You should pre-drill with the counter sink bit to ensure you don’t split the wood and that the screw heads are recessed below the surface of the top riser block.

Step 2: Build the storage boxes

The storage compartments of this jig are fairly simple in nature to build, however the divided compartment is designed specifically to fit standard Kreg brand pocket hole screw packages. The spacing between the dividers should be exactly 2 7/8″. If you use 1/2″ plywood for all of the compartment walls (except the back wall), you wind up with the perfect amount of spacing for four rows of screw or plug packages. We use 3/4″ plywood on the back wall of the storage boxes to have enough space for the hinges to be recessed and attached. The reason to have the boxes 2″ in height (plus the 1/2″ plywood lid) is so that the top of the lid sits perfectly level with the top of the Kreg jig when it is sitting on the 1 1/2″ of riser blocks. If you decide to use 3/4″ plywood for the lids, you’re going to have to add a 1/4″ to your riser block assembly.

We use wood glue and 1″ trim nails to secure all of the plywood boards in place. It’s also a good practice to clamp the boards tight while the glue is drying.

Step 3: Attach the storage box lids, hinges and clasps

The last thing we need to do in building this pocket hole jig station is to attach the lids to the storage compartments. We mention this in the Step 2, but it is worth repeating because it is important. The reason to have the boxes 2″ in height, is that when we add the 1/2″ plywood lids the top of the lids sit perfectly level with the top of the Kreg jig when it is sitting on the 1 1/2″ of riser blocks. If you decide to use 3/4″ plywood for the lids, you’re going to have to add a 1/4″ to your riser block assembly.

In order to have the lids sit flat, you’re going to need to recess the hinges. You want the hinges to be recessed the exact thickness of them to allow the plywood lids to sit directly on the walls of the storage boxes. NOTE: when you recess the hinges, the screws that come with them may be too long for the 1/2″ plywood lids. I simply grind about 1/32″ off the tip of the screws to keep them from sticking through the lids.

After securing the lids, you can do a quick pass around each lid using your router and straight trim bit to make the edges perfectly flush. Once that it done, use the 2″ wood screws to attach your Kreg jig to the riser blocks ensuring to pre-drill the holes.

At this point, all of the assembly is complete on the pocket hole jig station. I like to add a few coats of boiled linseed oil to add a nice finish and to make it more durable and easier to keep clean. You can also use a polycrylic or polyurethane if you are not a fan of boiled linseed oil.

I hope you enjoy these plans and find them useful. Please check out our other jig and workshop plans. If you have any questions, leave us a comment below. And don’t forget to submit your build if you use these or any of our plans to build something of your own.

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