These DIY router table fence plans are designed to complement our DIY router table plans – and are very close to the design I use myself. The main difference between these plans and my fence is that I built mine without the t-track for adjusting the fence depth. I used overhangs and clamping knobs to hold the fence in place instead.

These plans allow for adjusting the fence face gapping to accommodate different width router bits, while still maintaining the optimal amount of support to the pieces you are routing. My favorite part of these plans is the piece I just added to my own router – the horizontal t-track above the adjustable face plates. This extra piece of t-track allows me to add a bit guard for safety, as well as stops and featherboards.

Materials Needed

• 1 – 2×4 sheet of 3/4″ plywood (or a bunch of scrap plywood if you have enough laying around)
• 1 – 36″ pieces of universal t-track
• 2 – 1/4″ knobs and t-track bolts
• 4 – 3/8″ x 2″ carriage bolts
• 4 – washers and wing nuts
• 1 1/2″ wood screws

Tools Needed

• Table saw and miter saw
• Router with straight bit (1/4″ or 3/8″)
• Drill / driver combo
• Forstner or Spade bit (to countersink carriage bolt heads)
• 3/8″ drill bit
• Brad nailer
• Wood glue

Step1: The router fence base

The first step in creating this router table fence is to cut the 5″ x 36″ x 3/4″ plywood base. Then, drill 1/4″ diameter holes, 1 1/2″ in from each edge, centered on the board at 2 1/2″ from the sides. Note the measurements in the diagram below are measuring to the outer edges of the holes. If you plan on using 3/8″ t-track bolts instead of 1/4″, you’ll need to make these holes bigger.

Step 2: Bottom supports and braces

The elements that allows the lower face plates to adjust to accommodate larger router bits are these slotted support walls. They are cut from 3/4″ plywood, 15″ wide x 5″ high. You will need to route a 3/8″ channel in them, centered 1 1/2″ from the bottom, starting 2″ from the inner edge, and ending 4″ from the outer edge.

These pieces then get supported by 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ braces. Glue and brad nail the braces to the base cut in Step 1 according to the diagram below. Then glue and brad nail the lower supports to the braces and the front edge of the base. There should wind up being a 6″ gap in the middle between these lower support boards.

Step 3: Adjustable lower fences

The adjustable lower fence plates are made from 3/4″ plywood pieces cut to 18″ wide by 3″ tall. You’ll then need to use your forstner or spade bit to drill 1/4″ deep holes 5″ and 11″ in from the outer edges to countersink the carriage bolt heads. Then follow up with the 3/8″ bit in the center of each of the countersinks to allow for the bolt.

Once these lower face plates are cut and drilled, you can attach them to the base using the carriage bolts, washers, and wing nuts.

Step 4: Upper fence

Now it is time to mount the upper fence. This is fairly simple. Just cut a single piece of 36″ x 7 1/2″ plywood. Then, optionally, route a 3/8″ deep x 3/4″ wide dado on one end to accept the t-track. Mount it to the lower supports using wood screws from the back. Cutting this at 7 1/2″ tall brings the total height to 10 1/2″ – which I find is tall enough for any piece I’m routing. It’s also not too tall for jigs that I’ve made that wrap over the top edge.

Step 5: Upper fence back support

Given the height of that upper face, it is good to have a little more support. Cut a piece of 3/4″ plywood to 32″ long x 4 1/2″ high. This will get centered on the lower supports, leaving a 2″ gap on each end and a 1″ gap at the top. Use wood glue to attach it to the lower supports, then wood screws to attach it to the upper fence.

You may question why leave the gaps at the sides and top? Why not make it 36″ x 5 1/2″? You can absolutely do this if you would prefer. I leave the 1″ gap at the top so that I can have some of jigs wrap over the upper fence, using it as a guide. Leaving that 1″ gap means that I only need a single piece of 3/4″ plywood for a spacer, and my jigs can than hook over the top. If I took the back support all the way up, I would have to cut and glue two pieces of plywood together to create a space to allow the top hook on my jigs.

Step 6: Dust port cover

The last step in making this DIY router table fence is to add a dust port cover, allowing a place to connect your vacuum’s hose. I made mine by cutting a 7 1/4″ x ~ 6 1/2″ piece of plywood with 45° miters on the long edges. Drilling a 2 1/2″ hole to accept the hose in the center. Then gluing and nailing it onto the two center braces. You could also add a nice 2 1/2″ angled dust port if you wanted, but I haven’t found that it would add much value to this application.

Enjoy these plans, or have any questions? Leave us a comment below. And don’t forget to submit your build if you use these or any of our plans to build something of your own.

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