Here are a set of master bedroom nightstand plans that are perfect for the DIY’er who is able to do a combination of different joinery techniques. I’m a big fan of this design because it includes a shallow top drawer, with cord cutouts in the back, that allows for charging cell phones and tablets while keeping the cords hidden. It also offers a deeper second drawer, and some shelf space underneath.

These master bedroom nightstand plans are not too difficult for the beginning wood worker, but they may take a little longer if you’re not familiar with how to make and attach drawers. If you take your time and pay attention to what you are doing, you can end up with a beautiful piece that will look as good (if not better) than any piece you can find in the store.

Materials:

• 4×8 sheet of 1/2″ plywood
• 2×4 sheet of 3/4″ plywood
• 2×4 sheet of 1/8″ plywood
• 1 – 6′ piece of 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ hardwood
• 1 – 4′ piece of 3/4″ x 1″ hardwood
• 1 – 2′ piece of 3/4″ x 3/4″ hardwood
• 1 – 4′ piece of 3/4″ x 1/2″ hardwood
• 1 – 2′ piece of 8″ x 3/4″ hardwood
• 1 – 8′ piece of 1/2″ x 3/4″ half round
• 1 – 8′ piece of trim

For hardwoods, if you plan on painting this, poplar should be fine.

Tools:

• Saw: table, circular, miter, jig saw or band saw
• Drill/Driver
• Nail Gun
• Router (optional)
• Square
• Tape measure
• Wood glue
• Sander and sandpaper

Step 1: Build the basic cabinet box

These master bedroom nightstand plans start with a basic box. Start by cutting your sides, bottom and back based on the following dimensions:

• Sides (x2): 16 1/2″ x 23 1/2″
• Bottom: 23″ x 17 1/2″
• Back: 22 1/2″ x 23 1/2″

Once you have your pieces cut, you want to put a 1/2″ wide x 1/4″ deep rabbet in the long edge of each side panel. This will allow for the back panel to be recessed in the sides, creating a lap joint.

Use wood glue and nails to attach the back panel to the side panels. Then attach the bottom, keeping the back edge flush to the back panel and allowing an even exposure on each side. Use wood glue and nails (or screws, if you pre-drill) from the bottom up into the cabinet sides to secure

Step 2: Add the face frame and drawer dividers

Your face frame will consist of two 1″ x 3/4″ pieces of hardwood cut to 23 1/2″ long for the uprights, and one piece of 3/4″ x 3/4″ hardwood cut to 20 1/2″ long for the horizontal piece. You can either use a pocket screw at each end of the horizontal piece, or wood glue and finish nails through the outside of the uprights to attach the three pieces. Once assembled, use wood glue and finish nails to attach the face frame to the cabinet box.

Now attach the 3/4″ x 1/2″ drawer dividers. The first one should be 1 5/8″ below the face frame. The second divider should be 8 1/8″ below the first divider. Use wood glue and two finish nails through the face frame and into each of the dividers.

Step 3: Add the top

The top of this piece is going to have final dimensions of 24″ x 18 1/8″ x 3/4″, and you have several options for making this. You can make it out 3/4″ plywood and then trim it out with hardwood or edge tape; or you can join some 3/4″ boards together to have a solid hardwood top. I personally prefer joining 3/4″ boards for the solid hardwood top. I just feel like it’s more durable and you don’t have to worry about scratching through the layers of veneer.

To attach, you can use wood glue and finish nails straight through the top into the sides. Or, you can add 1/2″ x 1/2″ blocks to the inside tops of each side of the cabinet and then nail up through them if you don’t want to deal with filling and sanding nails holes. If you’re going to stain the top, I’d recommend the blocks and nailing from underneath.

Step 4: Add feet and the skirt boards (if desired)

In these master bedroom nightstand plans, we show the feet made from 1″x1″ hardwood, cut to the 3″ in length. We also show arced skirt boards cut from 3/4″ thick hardwood. This is just one option, as you can also buy pre-made feet from Home Depot.

If you decide to make and attach your own feet similar to our design, I recommend using threaded insert screws in the same fashion as the pre-made feet.

Step 5: Add trim to your nightstand

Now that you are done constructing your nightstand cabinet, it is time to trim it out for a more professional look. Use 3/4″ x 3/4″ cove molding under the top, and 3/4″ x 1/2″ half round around the base. Wood glue and finish nails should be used to secure the pieces in place.

At this point, you are done building the body of your nightstand. Now it’s on to the drawers.

Step 6: Build the larger drawer

This large drawer is going to be built with a 1/8″ bottom thick bottom, rabbeted into a four sides to ensure it is securely held in place. Start by cutting your 1/8″ plywood to 18 3/4″ x 15″. Next, cut two sides pieces from your 1/2″ plywood at 6 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ and then cut the front and back at 6 1/2″ x 18 7/8″.

Now cut a 1/8″ wide x 1/4″ deep dado in all four pieces, 1/8″ up from the bottom. A single pass over a standard table saw blade should give you this 1/8″ wide cut. This dado should allow the piece of plywood you cut for the bottom to slide in snuggly, but not over tight.

You’ll also want to cut a 1/2″ wide x 1/4″ deep rabbet on both ends of each side piece. Glue and nail three of these pieces together, and then slide the bottom piece in place. Then glue and nail the last piece in place.

Lastly, cut a piece of 8″ x 3/4″ hardwood 20 3/8″ long, and then use glue and nails (from inside the drawer) to attach this face piece to the drawer you just built.

Step 7: Build the electronics drawer

Since the electronics drawer is shallow and is only intended to carry the weight of a few small cell phones or tablets, we’re going to use simple rabbet joints to hold the bottom shelf in place. Though, you could build it in a manner similar to the deep drawer you just built if you were comfortable with those techniques.

Start by cutting your bottom shelf to size, 18 7/8 x 12 1/4. You can cut it on the larger side of these measurements, but you want to ensure it has enough room to fit in the rabbets without being overly tight.

Next, cut a 3/8″ wide by 1/8″ high rabbet in the 1 1/2″ x 3/4″ stock your going to use for the sides and back. Then cut that stock into the three separate pieces required to build the sides and back:

• 2 pieces at 12″ for the sides
• 1 piece at 19 3/8″ for the back

Then cut the piece for the front to 20 3/8″ in length, and create a 1/4″ wide by 1/8″ high rabbet in this piece – but ensure to stop about 3/4″ from the ends so that the rabbet is not exposed.

Now attach all of your sides, front, and back using simple butts joint supported by wood glue and nails. Know that you’ll have to come back and fill the holes in the front later if you use this method. Now use wood glue and nails (or staples) to secure the bottom shelf in place.

Step 8: Sand, finish, and add hardware of your choice

At this point you are ready to sand and paint or stain your new master bedroom nightstand. Then the last finishing touch is to add the hardware of your choice to the drawers.

We hope you find these master bedroom nightstand plans useful. As always, if you have questions or thoughts feel free to drop them in the comments below, or send us a note via our contact page. And don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

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