This version of our caned headboard plans are designed to be built with solid 3” x 3” boards as the primary components. We do have a version designed to be built with 1” x 3” boards, and another version designed using standard dimensional 1×4 lumber bought from a big box store. We’re also building this headboard using classic blind mortise and tenon joinery, but the plans could easily be adapted to use other types of joinery based on your comfort level.
Tools Required:
- Miter saw
- Sander and sandpaper
- Drill/Driver
- 1/2” chisel
- Tape measure
- Brad nailer
- Staple gun & 1/2” staples
- Biscuit joiner or dowel jig
- 90° clamping jigs
- Square
Materials List:
- 4 – 3” x 3” hardwood boards
- 8 – 72” pieces of 1/2” trim
- 3 – 96” pieces of 1 1/2” x 1/2”
- 4 – 30” x 40” caning
- Wood screws
- Wood Glue
Step 1: Cut the cross beam and middle support
The first step we’re going to complete in these caned headboard plans is cutting the cross beam and the middle support. The cross beam is a 76 1/2” length of 3×3, with 1” long tenons cut on each end. Cut the shoulders of the tenons to 1/2” on all sides, so the tenons themselves are 2” x 2”. You’ll also need to cut a 2” x 2” x 1” deep mortise in the center of the middle support.
The middle support is a 26” length of 3×3, with similar 2” x 2” x 1” tenons on each end. Ensure the tenon on one end fits snug into the mortise cut in the middle support. You’ll use wood glue to attach these two boards. Use 90° clamping jigs to ensure the middle support is perfectly square off of the cross beam.
Step 2: Connect the legs and cross beam
Next we’re going to cut the legs, and attach the cross beam. The legs are 50” lengths of 3×3, cut with a 45° miters on one end. You’ll also need to cut a 2” x 2” x 1” mortise 20 1/2” up from the bottom on the inside of each of these legs. Make certain the mortises are cut so the corresponding tenons are snug.
Use wood glue and 90° clamping jigs to attach the cross beam to the legs.
Step 3: Add the top board
The next step in creating this caned headboard is to cut and attach the top board. This is another piece of 3×3 cut to 80 1/2” in length, with non-parallel 45° miters cut on each end. This board also has a 2” x 2” x 1” mortise cut in the middle of the inside, similar to the cross beam. Use wood glue and either biscuits or dowels to attach the top board to the legs, plus more wood glue on the tenon.
Step 4: Add the nailer strips
Now that the frame of this caned king headboard is compete, let’s add the hardwood nailer strips to the inside. These nailer strips are 1 1/2” wide x 1/2” high pieces. Use wood glue and brad nails to attach them, centered on the 3x3s. This should leave a 3/4” lip on both sides of the nailer strips.
Step 5: Caning and trim
The last construction step on these plans is to attach the caning and the trim. I like to use caning that is oversized so that I can stretch it taught while stapling it in place, though you can buy rolls of caning 24” in width, which eliminates the need to have to cut the caning after it is secured. Use staples all around the caning to attach it to the nailer strip, then use wood glue and brad nails to attach the trim to hide the staples.
Now that the construction of this king caned headboard is complete, it is time for sanding and finishing.
If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below. We love the feedback! Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.
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