Are you looking to build to build your own frame for your king size bed? These farmhouse canopy bed plans might be just the thing you’re looking for! There are not too many complicated cuts, and the materials cost should be under $200 (unless you opt to use an expensive or exotic wood). Plus, you should be able to build this entire bed frame in one weekend; though the finishing could take a few extra days due to drying times.

These farmhouse canopy bed plans were inspired by Ana White’s queen size Saving Alaska Farmhouse Canopy Bed. The major difference between a queen size bed frame and a king size frame is the width. A queen bed is typically 60″ wide x 80″ long, whereas a king bed is 76″ wide x 80″ long. So we’re really just adding an extra 16″ to the width to adapt to the king size mattress, though we are also making a few other adaptions and modifications as well.

Tools:

• Saw – table saw or circular saw
• Miter saw
• Kreg jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Drill/Driver
• Brad Nailer (or a good old fashion hammer and countersink)
• Tape measure
• Square
• Wood Glue (use on all joints except for attaching side rails to the posts)

Cut List:

Note: we are using actual dimensions in the measurements below. Remember, a typical “2×4″ stud is actually 1.5″ x 3.5”. When dimensional lumber can be used, we note it in parentheses after the actual measurements.

• 4 – 3″ x 3″ posts at 80″ (these can either be custom ordered, or ripped down from standard 4×4 posts)
• 4 – 1.5″ x 3″ at 75″ (rip .5″ from a standard 2×4)
• 1 – .75″ x 3.5″ at 75″ (1×4)
• 2 – .75″ x 2.5″ at 75″ (1×3)
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 75″ x 32″
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 75″ x 11-1/4″
• 4 – .75″ x 1.5″ at 81″ inner length (1×2 with edges cut to 45 degree miters. Outside length should be 82 1/2″)
• 4 – .75″ x 1.5″ at 3″ inner length (1×2 with edges cut to 45 degree miters. Outside length should be 4 1/2″)
• 2 – .75″ x 11 1/4″ at 81″ (1×12 – use solid wood, not plywood)
• 4 – .75″ x 2.5″ at 81″
• 2 – 1.5″ x 2.5″ at 81″
• 2 – 1.5″ x 3.5″ at 81″ (2×4 stud)
• 2 – 1.5″ x 3.5″ at 73″ (2×4 stud)
• 2 – 1.5″ x 3.5″ at 11 1/4″ (2×4 stud)

Step 1: Headboard

We’re going to start these farmhouse canopy bed plans by building the headboard. This consists of the following pieces:

• 2 – 3″ x 3″ posts at 80″ (posts)
• 2 – 1.5″ x 3″ boards at 75″ (stretchers)
• 1 – .75″ x 3.5″ board at 75″ (front trim)
• 1 – .75″ x 32″ plywood at 75″ (panel).

Start by attaching the two stretchers to the posts. The first stretcher should be attached flush with the top of the posts. This can be done using pocket screws from the top, two per end. The second stretcher should be attached with the top of the stretcher 50″ from the bottom of the posts. For this board, use pocket screws from the under side.

Next, attach the front trim, using pocket screws from the back. Ensure that the front of the trim is aligned with the front of the posts and pushed up against stretcher.

Lastly, attach your 32″ plywood panel to the posts behind the front trim and pushed up against the stretcher. You’ll need to use at least four pocket hole screws on each side, and another six across the top. To ensure the bottom of the plywood panel is inset the same distance as the top, use another .75 thick piece of wood as a spacer while your screwing in the pocket screws.

Step 2: Headboard Trim

Once you have the headboard assembled, it’s time to add on the trim. Here you’ll be using:

• 2 – .75″ x 1.5″ at 81″ inner length (1×2 with edges cut to 45 degree miters. Outside length should be 82 1/2″)
• 2 – .75″ x 1.5″ at 3″ inner length (1×2 with edges cut to 45 degree miters. Outside length should be 4 1/2″)

Use wood glue and brad nails to attach the trim pieces, aligned to the top of the lower stretcher.

Step 3: Footboard

The footboard assembly is much like the headboard assembly, just with thinner boards. Here you will use:

• 2 – 3″ x 3″ posts at 80″ (posts)
• 2 – 1.5″ x 3″ boards at 75″ (stretchers)
• 2 – .75″ x 2.5″ board at 75″ (front trim)
• 1 – .75″ x 11 1/4″ plywood at 75″ (panel).

Attach the two stretchers and the upper front trim using pocket hole screws in the same manner as the headboard assembly. The lower stretcher’s top should be 20 1/2″ from the bottom of the posts. The plywood panel should have at least three pocket holes along the sides and six pocket holes along the top. Then attach the lower front trim directly to the plywood panel using wood glue and brad nails. You can also add a few brad nails from the top front trim through to the plywood panel for extra strength as well.

Step 4: Footboard Trim

The footboard trim is attached in the exact same manner as the headboard trim using wood glue and brad nails.

• 2 – .75″ x 1.5″ at 81″ inner length (1×2 with edges cut to 45 degree miters. Outside length should be 82 1/2″)
• 2 – .75″ x 1.5″ at 3″ inner length (1×2 with edges cut to 45 degree miters. Outside length should be 4 1/2″)

Step 5: Sideboards and canopy sides

The two sideboards are made from solid wood 1x12s and two trim pieces each, and the canopy sides are made from the 1.5 x 2.5″ boards.

• 2 – .75″ x 11 1/4″ at 81″ (1×12 – use solid wood, not plywood)
• 4 – .75″ x 2.5″ at 81″ (sideboard trim)
• 2 – 1.5″ x 2.5″ at 81″ (canopy sides)

The sideboards do not actually get attached to the headboard and footboard at this point – and they never get glued! You need to be able to disassemble the four major components of the frame so you can move it into the room. So at this point just use wood glue and brad nails to attach the two trim pieces to each of the sideboards. Then, you’ll have several options to actually attach the sideboards several different ways. I’ve written another post to detail several options for attaching the side rails to the headboard and footboard.

The canopy sides just need pocket holes, from the top, to attach to the posts in a similar fashion as the headboard and footboard. For now, just drill the holes but do not attach.

Step 6: Support Frame

To now, these farmhouse canopy bed plans are really only a cosmetic exterior. So if you don’t already have metal bed frame to actually rest your box spring and mattress on, you’ll need to add some 2×4 studs to actually hold up the bed. The supports diagrammed below would be attached directly to the sideboards using machine screws and threaded inserts so they can be easily removed and reassembled multiple times without it losing strength.

Using the following materials:

• 2 – 1.5″ x 3.5″ at 81″ (2×4 stud)
• 2 – 1.5″ x 3.5″ at 73″ (2×4 stud)
• 2 – 1.5″ x 3.5″ at 11 1/4″ (2×4 stud)

Use wood glue and 2.5″ wood screws to attach the 73″ long pieces (stretchers) to the 81″ long pieces (rails) as per the diagram below, and then attach the 11 1/4″ pieces in the center of the stretchers, aligning them to the top of the stretchers.

Step 7: Finish and enjoy!

Now that your complete with the building portion of these farmhouse canopy bed plans, it’s time to sand, and finish as your wish.

If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below or use our Contact Form. We love the feedback! Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

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