The following plans are for building a small parts jig for the table saw. If you do a fair amount of cutting of smaller parts at odd angles, especially if they are repetitive cuts, this small parts taper jig may be a good addition to your workshop. We’ve designed this jig as an alternative to our supersled when we want quick setup and the guarantee of accurate cuts. The handle on the back provides good control of the jig while also acting as a backstop for the work pieces. While the adjustable fence allows you to lock in a wide variety of cutting angles so you can measure the first cut and then repeat it on additional work pieces over and over. And since this taper jig slides right next to the blade, you can use the edge of it to align the cut line of your workpiece.

Materials Needed

• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 18″ (base plate)
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 12″ (adjustable fence)
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 2″ x 2″ (riser block)
• 1 – 2×4 at 10″ (handle)
• 1 – hardwood runner – 3/8″ x 3/4″ x 18″
• 1 – toggle clamp
• 2 – 10″ t-track
• 2 – t-track bolts and knobs
• 1 1/4″ wood screws
• 2″ wood screws
• wood glue

Tools Needed

• Table saw
• Router with straight bit
• Ruler and Square
• Drill / Driver with a countersink bit

Step 1: Cut the base

Start by gluing a hardwood runner scaled to fit your table saw’s miter slot, typically 3/4″ x 3/8″ to the bottom of a piece of 3/4″ plywood slightly wider than your desired finished base. You’ll want to have this runner to be positioned about 1/4″ in from the edge further than your miter slot sits from your table saw blade. Once you have it glued and screwed in place, run the plywood base through the table saw, cutting off the excess and ensuring the edge is perfectly aligned to the blade. Now, using your miter gauge, trim the back edge of the board so that it is square to the side you just trimmed.

The actual finished size of your base is not really important. We use 10″ x 18″ in these plans as a suggestion, but the actual size can vary.

Once you have the base cut to size, you’ll want to add two rabbets at 3/4″ wide x 3/8″ deep for the t-track. You’ll want these rabbets to be between 4 and 4 1/2″ apart. Given the way the slots are designed in the adjustable fence, having the t-tracks this close together should give you the widest range of movement.

Step 2: Add the handle

Now we’re going to add a nice handle to our taper jig. This is made from a scrap piece of 2×4, cut to the same width as your base, then glued and screwed to align with the back edge of the base. You don’t have to cut it into a handle patten like below, it is perfectly fine to leave square.

Step 3: Cut the adjustable fence

For the adjustable fence, we’regoing to start with a piece of a of 3/4″ plywood, 4″ wide by 12″ long. We’re going to cut two 1/4″ wide slots into this piece, 1″ from each end and about 1 1/2″ from the face. This should leave the slots 4″ apart.

In between the slots, 1/2″ from the face, we need to glue a 2″ x 2″ riser block for the toggle clamp. Add your toggle clamp to the top of this using 1 1/4″ screws to hold it in place.

Now that you have all of the pieces cut, the last steps are screwing in the t-track, running the t-track bolts throught he slots on the adjustable fence, and screwing on the knobs. You now have a new taper jig designed for making repeat cuts on small parts.

I hope you enjoy these plans and find them useful. Please check out our other jig and workshop plans. If you have any questions, leave us a comment below. And don’t forget to submit your build if you use these or any of our plans to build something of your own.

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