Here’s a great variation to our sliding barn door console series this morning.  This 4-bay, 2 door variation with an open middle measures 72″ wide, 37″ high and 21 3/4″ deep. This sliding door console is designed by request with an open double-bay middle and extra storage shelf at the top.

Remember once you are done building your own sliding barn door console, or anything you’ve built that has been inspired by any of our plans, we’d love to see how it turned. Please take a few minutes to sign up and share your results by submitting your build so we, and all of our readers, can enjoy your work!

Materials:

• 3 – 2×8 at 6 feet long (for the top)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ thick plywood (for the back)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/2″ thick plywood (inner walls and shelves and doors)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood (for the floor and top shelf)
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4 plywood (sides)
• 2 – 1×2 @ 6 feet long (trim)
• 4 – 1×4 @ 6 feet long (face frame and shelf supports)
• 3 – 2×3 @ 6 feet long (or 2x4s ripped to size)
• Edge tape
• Wood screws
• Nails
• Hardware for sliding doors – You can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own.  I made my own for my rustic barn wood dog crate. Remember if you are buying it, you need to buy a set that accommodates two doors

Tools:

• Saw: circular, miter, and/or table saw.
• Drill / Driver
• Nail Gun or hammer
• Quick-grip clamps also come in handy
• Kreg jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Wood Glue (I’m a fan of Titebond)

Step 1: Build the lower frame and add the bottom shelf

Start by assembling your assembling your lower frames.  This is made out of 2x3s and fastened using wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws for all joints. This doesn’t have to be pretty, as it will be hidden underneath, but it does have to be square. Once you have your frame built, cut and add a piece of 3/4″ plywood cut to 69″ x 20″ on top. Use a good bead of wood glue all along the top edge of the base frame, and finish nails to hold it in place while the wood dries.

I actually buy 2x4s and rip a 1/2″ off of each edge to get down to the desired dimensions of 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. This also squares off the corners and gives a little better surface to glue the base to.

Step 2: Add the plywood sides

Next your going to cut your two sides from the 3/4″ plywood sheet at 35 1/2″ x 20 1/4″. Before you attach these, we’re also going add the 3/4″ x 3/4″ shelf supports. The shelf supports can be made by ripping 3/4″ strips from one of your 1x4s.  Attach the shelf supports per the diagrams below using wood glue and 1 1/4″ nails (to hold the supports in place while the glue dries). Your quick-grip clamps will come in handy to hold the supports in place while you nail them.

You will also want to drill 6 pocket holes across the top inner edge of each of these side walls. These pocket holes will be used later to attach the top.

Now attach the sides to the base with the front edge flush to the frame and the back edge over-hanging the back edge of the frame by 1/4″. This overhang will conceal the outer edges of the back panels we’ll add later. Use wood glue and 2″ wood screws.

Step 3: Add the top shelf

The top shelf is another pieces of 3/4″ plywood, this one cut to 69″ x 20″. We’re also going to add two more 3/4″ shelf supports to the top shelf. These will be glued and nailed to the underside of the top shelf, 15 1/4″ in from each end.

Attach the top to the console by gluing and nailing it to the upper shelf supports on each side.

Step 4: Add the inner walls

Next you will need to cut two inner walls from your 1/2″ plywood at 26″ x 20″. You will also add one 3/4″ shelf support to each inner wall, 11 1/2″ up from the bottom.

Now you can attach the inner walls by nailing them to the supports which were attached to the top in Step 3. Do not attach to the bottom shelf yet, as we will do that in the next step. Make certain to have the shelf supports facing towards the outer walls.

Step 5: Add the shelves

We’re going to use the remaining 1/2″ plywood to cut the two shelves at 16″ x 20″. Once these are cut, use the edge banding to cover one of the 16″ edges to hide the plywood.

We’re going to secure these shelves again using wood glue and finish nails, nailing down into the shelf supports. As you are installing the shelves in this console, ensure that your inner walls are square to both the top and bottom shelves. Once the shelves are attached, not lay your unit on it’s front edge and nail up through the bottom shelf into the inner walls to secure them in place.

Step 6: Add the face frame

The face frame is made of the 1×4 material, cut to size and assembled using two pocket hole screws at each junction. Make certain to continue to check square as you build the frame. Once assembled, use wood glue and finish nails to attach to the base, sides, top shelf and inner walls. At this point, your console should be pretty sturdy, and definitely needs to be square.

Step 7: Rip and attach plywood back planking

When you are ready to install the back planking, you have four options:

1. Make all of the planks the exact same, which means cutting 16 boards at 4 5/16″, or
2. Make all of the planks the exact same, cutting eight boards at 8 5/8″, or
3. Make the boards varying widths for a more rustic/reclaimed look, or
4. Add a solid sheet of 1/4″ plywood cut to 69″ x 35 1/2″

In any case, you will install the back in the same manner.  Use wood glue and nails (or staples) at the top and bottom of each board to attach to the frames, and also secure the appropriately positioned planks to the inner walls to provide more structural integrity to the entire piece.

If you are going to use this top shelf area for electronics, you may want to cut one or two planks down to 30″, to leave a gap in the back for cords and air flow.

Note: it’s also a good practice to ensure the back of the piece is still square before you start attaching the planks.

Step 8: Top

The next step is attaching the top.  This consists of the three 2×8 boards which should not require any cutting if you purchased 6′ (72″) boards.  Align the first board flush with the back of the piece, and overhanging each side equally.   Use wood glue and pocket hole screws to hold these top boards in place.

If you didn’t drill the pocket holes earlier, fear not, you can simply cut two more 3/4″ x 3/4″ shelf supports and attach these 1 1/2″ in from each end of the top. Also remember to move it in 1/4″ from the back edge to allow spacing for the planks. Use wood glue and finish nails to attach the support strips to the top, then more wood glue and finish nails to attach the support strips to the side walls.

Step 9: Bottom Trim

The bottom trim is made of 1×2 stock, cut with 45 degree miters.  Simply glue and nail it on.

Step 10: Door and sliders

The simplest way to build the door is to start by cutting a 25 3/4″×16 3/4″ piece of 1/2″ plywood, and then laying 1 1/2″ strips around the edges and then in an X pattern.  Though how you build the door is really what will add your custom touch to this piece, so feel free to experiment. 

After you have your doors built, you just need to attach it to your barn door hardware and your sliding barn door console is ready for finishing. 

If you have any questions or comments about this version of our sliding door consoles, leave us a note in the comments section below.

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