By request, here is a 66″ wide version of our sliding door corner console. These corner consoles are great for smaller rooms, or rooms with multiple doors that don’t have enough wall space for TV.

If you have any questions about these sliding door corner console plans or if you want to see more versions of something similar to these, just leave us a note in the Comments section down below. Looking for more options for sliding door consoles? Then check out one of our other sliding door console plans.

Materials:

• 2 – 2×8 at 6 feet long (top)
• 4 – 1×2 @ 6 feet long (trim and supports)
• 4 – 1×4 @ 6 feet long (face frame)
• 6 – 2×3 @ 6 feet long (or 2x4s ripped to 2 1/2″ instead of 3 1/2″ wide)
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ thick plywood (for the door)
• 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood (for the back, sides and floor)
• 1 – roll of 3/4″ plywood edge banding
• Wood screws
• Nails
• Hardware for sliding doors – You can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own. 

Tools:

• Saw: circular, miter, and/or table saw.
• Drill / Driver
• Nail Gun or hammer
• Kreg jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Wood Glue (I’m a fan of Titebond)

Step 1: Build the upper and lower frames

Start by assembling your assembling your upper and lower frames.  These are made out of 2x3s, and are identical.  I start with standard construction 2x4s, and rip 1/2″ off of each long edge to cut them down to the desired 1 1/2″ by 2 1/2″ final dimensions.

Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws for all joints.

Step 2: Add the plywood sides/backs

Cut your two sides from the 3/4″ plywood sheet.  Note that these are each difference widths but both 36″ high. The longer of the two is 45 5/8 on the back edge with the front edge cut at a 45° angle. The shorter one is 44 7/8″ wide on the back edge, also with a 45° angle. Instead of trying to measure these cuts, I recommend cutting both pieces to height, then positioning the first piece against the frame and marking the cut line. Then attaching and doing the same for the second piece.

Since the backside of this sliding door corner console will most likely be hidden in the corner, you can use screws to attach the panels to the frame. Though I still like to using 16 gauge nails and wood glue. The glue itself, if applied correctly, will provide a much stronger bond than any mechanical fastener.  So the nails are really just holding it in place until the glue dries.

Step 3: Floor, supports and shelf

These plans use a a single sheet of 3/4″ plywood for both the floor and the shelf.  Both of these are cut to the exact same size. Knowing the back angle is 90°, I like to lay my piece of plywood into the corner and then mark where the sheet extends past the frame.

Cut both pieces the same size, and start by attaching the floor with wood glue and a few finish nails.

Once the floor is installed, you can attach the four 1×2″ supports, each cut to 13 1/4″. Note that the two front supports are also rippled to include a 45° bevel to allow them to sit flush behind the face frame. Use wood glue and finish nails to attach to the plywood sides. Now add 3/4″ x 3/4″ runners going from the supports. You can make these runners by ripping a 1×2 in half, or buy wood already cut to this dimension. These runners will add structure to the shelf, preventing it from sagging.

After you have the supports and runners in place in the cabinet, you can rest the shelf on the runners and then secure it with screws or finish nails. The last step of the shelf is to add a 1×2 front trim piece, with 45°s cut on each end, to the front of the shelf. Use wood glue and finish nails, keeping the top of the trim flush with the top of the shelf.

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Step 4: Attach the face frame

The entire face frame is made out of 1 x 4 boards. All of the pieces can be attached together using either biscuits, pocket screws, or mortise and tenon joinery.  Just remember, if you plan on using mortise and tenon joinery, you are going to have to cut your boards longer than the measurements shown in the diagram below.

Step 5: Console Top

The next step is attaching the top.  This consists of 2×8 boards laid consecutively. Start with the front board, letting it overhang the face frame by about 1″. The sides should be aligned with the plywood sides. Continue to install the 2×8 boards one at a time using wood glue and pocket screws or 4″ wood screws through the frame from underneath.  If opting for the 4″ wood screws, I definitely recommend pre-drilling the holes and even countersinking them to better hide the screw heads.

Note there will be a small gap at the back, which you can fill with a piece of 2×4 cut to the appropriate size. Though this also makes a convenient place to run cords from in the corner console to a TV.

Step 6: Bottom Trim

The bottom trim is made of 1×2 stock cut to 67 1/2″ on the front edge and 45° miters on each end.  Simply glue and nail it on.

Step 7: Door and sliders

The simplest way to build the door is to start by cutting a 20″ × 30″ piece of 1/2″ plywood, and then laying 1 1/2″ plywood strips around the edges and in an X pattern.  Though how you build the door is really what will add your custom touch to this piece, so feel free to experiment.  Just remember to keep them at the proper finished dimensions.

After you have your doors built, you just need to attach it to your barn door sliders and your console is ready for finishing.  Again, you can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own.  I really enjoy making my own because it definitively gives a more rustic or antique feel to the piece.

If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below.  We love the feedback!  Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans and to send us a few pictures of your projects!

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