It’s spring time again, which means it’s time to add some more planter box designs to our list of free DIY plans. These tiered planter box plans are another easy project and only require a few common DIY tools. We have several other planter box designs on our site already, but we always want to continue to provide variety for options that fit your scenario or inspire you to create something new.
If you build a planter from these tiered planter box plans, or build anything from any of our plans, we would love to see how your project turns out. Please take a few minutes to share your build, so we can appreciate your work and know that our plans are helping a community of DIYers.
Materials Needed
- 10 – 1x4s @ 8′ (cedar is preferable)
- 2 – 1x2s @ 6′ (cedar is preferable)
- Landscape fabric or plastic planter boxes
- 1 1/4″ exterior wood screws
- 1 1/4″ exterior pocket hole screws
Tools Needed
- Miter saw or circular saw
- Flush cut saw
- Drill driver combo
- 18 gauge brad nailer and 1″ exterior grade brad nails (optional)
- Pocket hole jig
- Exterior grade wood glue
- Sander & sandpaper
Step 1: Cut your boards to size
We’ll start this tiered planter box by cutting all of the boards down to size. Make certain to plan and layout all of your cuts before you start to maximize the usage of the boards. Start by cutting your 1×4 boards per this list:
- 12 – 25 1/2″ (planter box long walls)
- 12 – 8″ (planter box short walls)
- 6 – 24″ (planter box bottom)
- 2 – 36″ (stand back legs)
- 2 – 39 3/16″ with parallel 22.5° miters (stand front legs)
Next cut your 1x2s down to the below dimensions. Note that for the planter supports we’re going to cut both ends square, then trim to final length with the flush cut saw once we have the tiered planter stand base fully assembled.
- 2 – 22″ (bottom supports)
- 2 – 16″ (middle supports)
- 2 – 11″ (top supports)
- 1 – 26″ bottom stretcher
Step 2: Assemble the three planter boxes
Now that you have all of the pieces cut for this tiered planter box, it’s time to start the assembly. We’ll start by building the three planter boxes. Start by drilling pocket holes as such
- For six of the planter box long side boards, on one 25 1/2″ edge cut five pocket holes evenly spaced
- For six of the planter box short side boards, on one 8″ edge cut three pocket holes evenly spaced
- For each planter box bottom board, cut five pocket holes into one 24″ edge and two more pocket holes on each short edge
Now use wood glue and the pocket hole screws to connect each long board with pocket holes to one long board without, and do similar with the short boards. This should give you six sets of long sides and six sets of short sides. Now use wood glue and either brad nails or 1 1/2″ exterior wood screws to join all two long sides with two short sides to form a box. Make certain all of the pocket holes are at the top of the bottom boards – this will help prevent water from collecting in them. Also ensure the long boards are on the outside of the short ends so your final box dimensions are 25 1/2″ x 9 1/2″.
The last step in construction of these planters is to use exterior wood glue and the 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the planter box bottom boards to the sides. The pocket holes should be on the outside (bottom side) of the box.
If you are going to put the dirt straight into these planter boxes, you will want to line them with some landscape fabric to prevent the dirt from slipping through the crack on the bottom. If you are going to use store bought plastic planers, you can just drop them in and be good to go!


Step 3: Lay out and assemble the stand
With the planter boxes built, it’s time to lay out and assemble the stand that will hold them for these tiered planter box plans. Start by laying one back leg and one front leg on a flat surface, ensuring both the top and bottom ends align on the same planes. The total distance on the top end should be about 6 1/2″, and the bottom should be about 21 1/2″. These dimensions do not need to be exact.
Now, measuring 7″ down from the top end, align the back edge of your short support to the back edge of the back leg and attach using exterior wood glue and either brad nails or predrilled 1 1/4″ exterior wood screws. Then measure 11 1/2″ from the bottom of the short support and attach your middle support in a similar fashion. Finally, measure 11 1/2″ from the bottom of the middle support and attach the lower support. You can now use your flush cut saw to trim the overhanging piece off the front of each support board. Repeat this process for the other set of legs in these tiered planter box plans
After you’ve assembled both sets of legs, attach the long stretcher on top of the back corner of the bottom support board. At this point, you should be able to stand up your planter stand frame.




Step 4: Add the planter boxes
The final steps in assembly are attaching your planter boxes to the stand. Start by aligning the top box so that the front corner is aligned with the top front corners of the short supports. Then predrill and attach to the frame using two 1 1/4″ exterior wood screws per leg; so four screws per side and a total of eight screws per planter. Repeat this process for the middle box and then the lower box.
Step 5: Sand, paint or stain
Time for the finishing touches on your new tiered planter box stand. Use at least 120 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the entire piece. Then finish with a few coats of stain or your favorite exterior grade paint to help protect it from the elements. Pay particular attention to the inside of the box where moist dirt will stay in constant contact with the wood.
Not certain what type of finish you want to add to your new piece? Check out our series on eco-friendly wood finishes. We detail options for oils, waxes, water-based finishes, shellac, milk paint, and citrus and plant based solvents. We give you all of the details you need to make an informed choice about the right type of finish to choose for your latest project.
If you have any questions or comments about these x-frame planter box plans, leave us a note in the comments section below.
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