These round picnic table plans are based on our octagon picnic table plans, just with a rounded top and rounded seats. Creating a circular top and seats does add a bit of complexity to the build and requires minor changes in the way we build and support the top and seats.

Materials Required

• 4 – pressure treated 2×6 @ 8′
• 16 – non-pressure treated 2×6 @ 8′
• 8 – pressure treated 2×4 @ 8′
• 1 – pressure treated 2×8 @ 8′
• 3 1/2″ carriage bolts, washers and nuts
• 5″ carriage bolts, washers and nuts
• Exterior grade pocket hole screws

Tools Required

• Miter saw and circular saw
• Kreg pocket hole jig
• Drill / driver combo
• Quick clamps
• Router with straight bit or jig saw for cutting the curves
• Tape measure
• Square
• Protractor
• Sander and sand paper

Step 1: Build the top

The top of these round picnic table plans starts with nine pieces of non-pressure treated 2×6 cut per the dimensions shown in the first picture below. The last and third piece on each end can be cut from one 2×6, while the 2nd pieces on each side can be cut from a single piece as well.

Once the boards are cut to length, lay them out with an 1/8″ gap in between each board. Then start building the frame, which you’ll attach to the top boards to hold them in place. For the frame, you will need the following pieces:

• 1 – 622″ 2×4
• 2 – 30 1/4″ 2x4s
• 4 – 30″ 2x4s, with one end cut to form a 90° point.

All seven of the above pieces should also have one end with a 45° cut in it to remove the sharp corner. This helps to keep people from banging their knees or thighs. Start by attaching the 62″ piece using pocket hole screws every 6-8″, alternating sides with the hole. Next attach the 30 1/4″ pieces, centered on the 62″ piece. Again, use pocket hole screws every 6-8″ alternating sides. Finally, attach the 30″ pieces in the same manner.

Use pocket hole screws from the frame up into the top to attach all of the boards together. You’ll want at least two screws per top board. Note: I recommend attaching the frame slightly off of square to the top so that you’re not trying to screw it in to the edge of the top boards, and so any rain or snow that hits the top isn’t resting on the frame boards.

To cut the circle you’ll want to use a makeshift circle cutting jig. Since this top is 64″ in diameter, you’ll need a piece of scrap lumber at least 33″ in length. Find the center of the top, screw the circle cutting jig into the top so that one end is in the exact center. Then use either a router, jig saw, or even a circular saw to cut off the excess.

Step 2: Cut and attach the legs.

The four leg pieces are going to be cut from pressure treated 2x6s. These are simple cuts at 60° on each end, so each side is 33″ long. Clamp the legs in place so they are 4″ in from the outer end of the top support beams. Make certain the legs across from each other are on the same side of the support beam. Pre-drill two holes through each leg and corresponding support beam, then attach using the 3 1/2″ carriage bolts. Alternatively, you can use three 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws per leg.

Step 3: Seat support frame

For the seat support frames you are making two almost identical assemblies. The first consists of a pressure treated 2×4 cut to 95″, plus two additional 2×4 pieces cut to 43 3/4″. The second consists of another 95″ pressure treated 2×4, plus two additional 2×4 pieces cut to 46 3/4″. You can attach the shorter 2×4 pieces (the 43 3/4″ and the 46 3/4″ pieces) to the respective 95″ pieces by using 3″ exterior grade wood screws going through the 95″ pieces and into the ends of the shorter pieces. Just make certain you measure appropriately prior to attaching. One 2×4 should be in from the outer end of the 95″ piece 43 3/4″, while the other should be in 46 3/4″.

Attach the seat support frame to the four legs using two 5″ carriage bolts per leg. Remember to clamp the seat support frames in place, and pre-drill the holes first.

Step 4: Leg bases and seat supports

The next step in these round picnic table plans is the leg bases and seat supports. The leg bases are made from the pressure treated 2×8. Each of these bases is just a 23 1/2″ piece, with the outside corners cut off at 45° angles for visual effect. You will attach these to the legs using three 3″ exterior wood screws per leg. Remember that these are not going to be centered on the legs, as we want to account for the fact the legs are not centered on the table corners.

Add the seat supports to the leg bases, again use 3″ exterior wood screws from underneath. These should be aligned to the inside edge of the leg base.

Step 5: Add the bench seats

The bench seats are the last pieces to assemble in this build. They are made from non-pressure treated 2x6s. Since you’ll be making four of these, it is best to gang cut them to save some time. Because the seats are curved, it is a little more difficult to use underside supports. Instead, we’re going to bump these boards up tight together and use pocket hole screws from underneath. Before you drill you’re pocket holes you are going to want to lay out the curves for the seat – you don’t want to cut through a screw while you’re trimming those curves!

Once assembled, attach to the seat support frame and seat supports using 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws. You can screw from the top of the seat down into the support boards or use pocket hole screws from underneath. Note again that the seat is not centered over the support frame. The seat should actually be centered over the 2×4 support beam that runs directly under the corner joint. This will allow the seat to line up perfectly with the corner of the table.

Step 6: Sand all corners and surfaces

Now that you have your new picnic table completely built, it’s time to sand all of the corners down to have a nice rounded over edge. While you’re at it, it’s also a good idea to give the seats and the top a good once over with 120 grit sand paper. We don’t want any of our party guests getting splinters!

Once you’re done the sanding, add a coat of stain to protect your new picnic table from the elements. You’ll want this piece to last for years to come!

We hope you enjoyed these round picnic table plans. As always, if you have any questions reach out to us via the Comments section below. And if you do build something based on any of our plans, we’d love for you to share your experience and some pictures with us through our Submit Your Build page.

Recommended Reading

Looking to dive deeper? Here are a few related projects and guides that will help you sharpen your woodworking skills, discover new techniques, and find inspiration for your next build.

• Why cedar makes great outdoor furniture and what to substitute on a budget
• How to choose the best wood for your project
• DIY modern outdoor dining table plans

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