Here is a pallet wood console, with sliding doors, that adds another great twist to our ever-expanding sliding barn door console series.  This 4-bay, 2 door variation with an open middle measures 53″ wide, 29″ high and 19″ deep. This pallet wood console is designed to be built mostly out of reclaimed pallet wood. We do show using plywood for the shelves, however these could easily be replaced with pallet wood if so desired.

If you use these pallet wood console plans, or any of our plans, we’d love to see how it turned. Please take a few minutes to sign up and share your results by submitting your build so we, and all of our readers, can enjoy your work!

Materials:

• 1 – 2×12 at 6′ long (for the top)
• 1 – 2×10 @ 6′ long (for the top)
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood (for the floor and top shelf)
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4 plywood (remaining shelves)
• 3 – 2×3 @ 6 feet long (or 2x4s ripped to size)
• Lots of reclaimed pallet wood!
• Wood screws
• Nails
• Hardware for sliding doors – You can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own.  I made my own for my rustic barn wood dog crate. Remember if you are buying it, you need to buy a set that accommodates two doors

Tools:

• Saw: circular, miter, and/or table saw.
• Drill / Driver
• Nail Gun or hammer
• Quick-grip clamps also come in handy
• Kreg Jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Wood Glue (I’m a fan of Titebond)

Step 1: Build the lower frame and add the bottom shelf

Start by assembling your assembling your lower frames.  This is made out of 2x3s and fastened using wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws for all joints. This doesn’t have to be pretty, as it will be hidden underneath, but it does have to be square. Once you have your frame built, cut and add a piece of 3/4″ plywood cut to 50″ x 17″ on top. Use a good bead of wood glue all along the top edge of the base frame, and finish nails to hold it in place while the wood dries.

I actually buy 2x4s and rip a 1/2″ off of each edge to get down to the desired dimensions of 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. This also squares off the corners and gives a little better surface to glue the base to.

Step 2: Build and attach the sides

Next your going to build your two sides from the 3/4″ thick pallet wood boards. Each of the sides needs to measure 17 1/2″ x 27 1/2″, so you’ll need to choose boards that allow you to reach these measurements.

To hold these slats together we’re going to add two the 1 1/2″ x 3/4″ shelf supports. The shelf supports can be made by ripping strips from a piece of pallet wood 3/4″ thick.  Attach the shelf supports per the diagrams below using wood glue and 1 1/4″ nails (to hold the supports in place while the glue dries). Your quick-grip clamps will come in handy to hold the supports in place while you nail them.

You will also want to drill 2 pocket holes across the top inner edge of each of these slats. These pocket holes will be used later to attach the top. Alternatively, you can add a 3/4″ x 3/4″ nailing strip flush with the top edge as we do with the back slats in the next step.

Now attach the sides to the base with the front edge flush to the frame and the back edge over-hanging the back edge of the frame by 1/2″. This overhang will conceal the outer edges of the back slats we’ll add later. Use wood glue and 2″ wood screws.

Step 3: Add the back slats

Now you will want to install the back planking. These are designed to be 1/2″ thick boards at 27 1/2″ in length. The overall width of the back should be 50″. We’ll also add a 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 50″ nailing strip flush to the top of these slats to hold them together and to allow an easy way to attach to the top board. I actually would cut the nailing strip about an 1/8″ short, just for wiggle room given the use of pallet wood that may be inconsistent in thickness.

Use wood glue and nails (or staples) at the top and bottom of each board to attach to the frame and nailing strip. If you are going to use this top shelf area for electronics, you may want to cut one or two planks down to 22 1/2″, to leave a gap in the back for cords and air flow.

Note: it’s also a good practice to ensure the back of the piece is still square before you start attaching the planks.

Step 4: Add the top

The next step is attaching the top.  This consists of the one 2×12 ripped to 10″ and one 2×10 board. Cut both to 53″ in length.  Align the 2×12 board flush with the back of the piece, and overhanging each side equally.   Use wood glue and nails through the nailer strips to attach to the back. Then attach to the side either with the pre-drilled pocket holes or through the nailer strips use there. Attach the 2×10 in the same manner.

Step 5: Add the inner walls

Next you will need to cut two inner walls from your 3/4″ thick pallet wood boards. These walls should each measure at 18 3/4″ high x 17″ deep. You will also add four 3/4″ shelf support to each inner wall. One on each side at 7 3/4″ from the bottom, and one flush with the top.

Now you can attach the inner walls by toe-nailing them to the floor or nailing up through the bottom. Also put a few nails in through the back to hold them upright. Make certain the shelf supports touch the back wall so the 3/4″ gap is in the front.

Step 6: Add the shelves

We’re going to build a total of four shelves for this pallet wood console. The upper shelf will simply consist of a 50″ x 17″ piece of 3/4″ plywood. You can of course replace this will pieces of pallet wood if desired. Lay this shelf over the inner walls and the upper shelf supports of the outer walls, then attach with 1 1/4″ nails from underneath through each shelf support.

The middle shelves will consist of two shelves made from 3/4″ plywood cut to 12 3/8″ by 16 1/4″, and one piece cut to 23 3/4″ by 16 1/4″. Each of these shelves should have a 1 1/2″ x 3/4″ stiffener strip glued and nailed to the front edge. These shelves can just be laid on the corresponding shelf supports.

Step 7: Add the face frame

The face frame for this pallet wood console is made of the 3/4″ thick boards, cut to size and assembled using two pocket hole screws at each junction. Make certain to continue to check square as you build the frame. Once assembled, use wood glue and finish nails to attach to the base, sides, top shelf and inner walls. At this point, your console should be pretty sturdy, and definitely needs to be square.

Step 8: Bottom Trim

The bottom trim is made of 1×2 boards, cut with 45 degree miters.  Simply glue and nail it on.

Step 9: Door and sliders

The simplest way to build the door is to start by cutting a 17 1/2″×12″ piece of 1/2″ plywood, and then laying 1 1/2″ strips of pallet wood around the edges and then in an X pattern.  Though how you build the door is really what will add your custom touch to this piece, so feel free to experiment. 

After you have your doors built, you just need to attach it to your barn door hardware and your sliding barn door console is ready for finishing. 

If you have any questions or comments about this version of our sliding door consoles, leave us a note in the comments section below.

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