The following plans are for building a dovetail jig for the table saw. Now, I’ve never considered myself very good at making dovetails – which is why I’m always willing to give a new dovetail jig idea a try. Of course, almost anyone can cut dovetails with a $200 dovetail jig; but not everyone wants to spend that much money on a single jig, or maybe their small shop doesn’t even include a router. This jig can be made with just a table saw, and all you need to cut the dovetails is that same table saw.

This DIY table saw dovetail jig’s dimensions are designed for a table saw with miter slots spaced 5-6″ from the blade. It is also designed to comfortably accommodate workpieces up to 5″ wide. If your table saw has spacing wider than 6″ or if you want to cut dovetails on wider pieces, you just need to increase the overall width of the entire dovetail jig.

Materials Needed

• 1 – 3/4″ MDF at 11″ x 16″ (base plate)
• 1 – 3/4″ MDF at 6 1/2″ x 16″ (base cleat)
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5″ x 9″ (angled fences)
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 5″ x 16″ (back fence)
• 1 – 2×4 at 4 1/4″ (cleat support)
• 2 – 2×4 at 6 1/2″ (blade guards)
• 1 – hardwood runner – 1/4″ x 3/4″ x 12″
• wood screws
• wood glue

Tools Needed

• Table saw
• Square
• Drill / Driver with a countersink bit

Step1: Build the base

Start by cutting two pieces of 3/4″ MDF board. The first will be the base plate at 11″ x 16″. The second will be the cleat. The cleat will be cut to 6 1/2″ x 16″, but you will also cut 7.5° angles on it coming out from the 8″ mid-point. This 7.5° angle will be the slope of your dovetail, and you can change this to your own preference from 7° to 15°; just adjust the angle in all of the pieces these directions cut to 7.5°. I just personally prefer the 7.5° visually.

Once you have both pieces cut, glue the cleat to the base. Ensure the straight back edge of the cleat is 2 1/4″ from the edge of the base, ,and that these edges are completely parallel.

Step 2: Add the supports

Next we’re going to cut the blade guard blocks and the cleat support. All three of these pieces are cut from pieces of 2×4. The two blade guard blocks are going to be 6 1/2″ on the long edge, cut to that same 7.5° angle. The cleat support block needs to be cut to roughly 4 1/4″ long (it doesn’t need to be precise), and then have the 7.5° bevels cut on the front face.

Glue the cleat support block in place on the cleat, ensuring the points are aligned. Now glue both blade guard blocks in place making certain both the front and back edges are perfectly aligned to the front and back edges of the cleat.

Step 3: Attach the face and back plates

For the angled fence plate, miter one end of each at 7.5°. Then cut to length at just over 8″. You can run them a bit long if easier. Glue the fences to the cleat’s angled edge, cleat support, and guard blocks. These fences need to be at a perfect 90° angle to the base. If yours are not lining up perfectly, use shims to help achieve this 90° angle – but make certain to use shims evenly from center to side you don’t change the 7.5° angle. Finally, cut and glue on the straight fence. Again making certain it is at a perfect 90° angle to the base.

Step 4: Install guide rail

Finally, it’s on to installing the guide rail. Start by checking your hardwood guiderail in saw’s miter slots to ensure it is a nice snug fit. Center the jig on top of the guide rail while it sits in the miter slot and mark it’s position. Now mark where the blade will hit the jig. Move the fixture so the mark is centered on the saw’s other miter slot and mark this location as well. The goal is to have the blade going through the center of face plates and through the guard blocks.

To secure the guide rail, flip the fixture over and clamp one end of the guide rail to the mark you made on the base. Drill a pilot hole with a countersink bit and install a 3/4″ wood screw. Flip the fixture back over and insert it into one of the table saw’s miter slots with the straight fence facing the blade. Use the straight fence and a framing square to square the fixture with the blade. Hold the fixture in position and mark where the rail extends beyond the back edge. Remove the fixture, flip it over and use this new mark to locate the guide rail. Clamp the rail in position, drill a pilot hole with a countersink bit and install a second screw. Test the guide rail’s fit in both miter slots, ensuring it is square in both. Then finish attaching with two more screws to ensure it is secure.

I hope you enjoy these plans and find them useful. I’ll be detailing how to use this dovetail jig in my next post. Please check out our other jig and workshop plans. If you have any questions, leave us a comment below. And don’t forget to submit your build if you use these or any of our plans to build something of your own.

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