Need a new router table to step up your wood working game? You don’t need to invest in an expensive premade router table, you can build your own router table starting with the basic designs in these DIY router table plans.

These plans are split into three simple components – the base, the table, and the fence. Each component is simple to build, or can be replaced with a pre-made version if you already have your heart set on a specific one.

Materials Needed

• 8 – 2x4s @ 8′
• 1 – 4×8 sheet of 3/4″ plywood
• 1 – router table insert plate
• 2 – 36″ pieces of universal t-track
• 2 – knobs and t-track bolts
• 4 – 3/8″ x 2″ carriage bolts
• 4 – washers and wing nuts
• 4 – workbench casters
• 1 – safety switch

Tools Needed

• Table saw
• Miter saw
• Router with straight bit (3/8″)
• Drill / driver combo
• Forstner or Spade bit (to countersink carriage bolt heads)
• 3/8″ drill bit
• Wood glue

Component 1: The router table base

The base used in these DIY router table plans is the same basic base design I use on my flip top cart plans and other mobile workshop pieces. They just have a few modifications for this specific usage.

This base is designed at 24″ deep by 36″ high, with 35″ legs. The entire unit, with the exception of the bottom shelf, is built from 2x4s. I like to cut 1/4″ off each edge of the 2x4s to make them square and to create an actual 3″x3″ leg when paired together.

I use a dado blade to cut the 3/4″ deep by 3″ wide dados in all eight leg pieces. I like my bottom shelf a little higher than most, as it’s final heoght is just about a foot off the ground. You can easily lower yours by cutting your lower dados closer to the end than I have shown below.

Use wood glue and screws to secure all of the pieces together. Then attach your safety switch and workbench casters.

Component 2: The router table top

The table portion of this DIY router table is made from a doubled over sheet of 3/4″ plywood, with a layer of laminate applied on top for a nice smooth surface. An inch and a half of plywood is probably overkill for the short span in between the 2×4 supports, but with the 3/8″ deep dados for the t-track, I’d rather be certain the top isn’t going to sag over time or when router heavy pieces. You can, of course, use some plywood with a laminate surface already applied to save yourself that step.

For installing the router plate insert, usr the template provided by the manufacturer you chose – just make certain to install at least 6″ in from the back edge of the table to ensure you clear the back 2×4 support. Install the 7″ t-track pieces 1″ in from the outer edges.

Component 3: DIY router table fence

The fence is easily the most difficult part of this build – and it needs to be the most precise to ensure you have an exact 90 degree angle between the table and the fence. If you’re not comfortable with making one yourself, there are tons of pre-made ones, or components of them, you can buy online.

The design we illustrate below includes two sliding fences on the front that allow you to expand the dust collection port opening up to 6″ to accommodate larger router bits. The sliding fences require you to drill 3/8″ holes and the appropriate countersink for the carriage bolt heads. These holes will line up with the slots drilled in the stationary backing board. Use the washers and wing nuts to tighten these down.

Measure and drill the holes for your t-track nuts to align with the t-track in the table top, and attach the knobs to tighten them down when you are adjusting your fence.

NOTE: We have a separate post for specific DIY router table fence plans if you want more detail around how this was built.

Enjoy these plans, or have any questions? Leave us a comment below. And don’t forget to submit your build if you use these or any of our plans to build something of your own.

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