This square farmhouse dining table plan set are the second in a series of square table plans we are releasing over the coming weeks. Each of these plans has variations in size and/or style, but the design and construction elements are interchangeable with each other so you can mix and match to create the square dining table that you are envisioning. 

This square farmhouse dining table is designed specifically to accommodate two standard width dining chairs on each side – with the clearance to actually push them in. This is due to the “x” style stretchers for the legs. A typically table has stretchers that run between two legs on one side, which on square tables means that those two sides have no where to push in their chairs.

In these DIY plans, we also show options for both biscuit joinery and pocket hole joinery for the top. Both will work just fine, but the biscuits allow the joinery to be completely hidden – even from the bottom.

Note: These instructions are based on using standard dimensional lumber, and we try our best to make that apparent in our illustrations and directions.  If you plan to lumber from a lumber yard you may have to adjust the measurements slightly to account for the difference in actual measurements.

Required Materials

• 2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 6′ for the legs
• 1 – 2″ × 6″ @ 10’ for the top breadboard ends
• 4 – 2″ x 8″ @ 8′ for the top
• 4 – 1″ × 4″ @ 8′ for the skirt boards and supports
• 2 – 2″ × 4″ @ 8’ for the x stretchers
• Wood glue
• 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
• 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
• Z clips for attaching the top

Tools

• Saw – Table, Circular, or Miter Saw
• Drill/driver & countersink Drill Bit
• Tenoning saw / hand saw
• Quick-grip bar clamps (optional)
• SHARP Chisel & mallet (or hammer)
• Pocket hole jig
• Biscuit joiner (optional)
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Sand paper or sander

Step 1: Cut the legs

Start your DIY small square farmhouse table by cutting the four legs from the 4×4 posts. In addition to cutting these to the 29 1/2″ length, I like to rip these down to 3″ x 3″ to eliminate the rounded over edges and to give them a slightly more slender look. You could even rip them down to 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ if you preferred.

After cutting and ripping the legs, we need to cut out an angled notch to accept the lower leg stretchers that are going to be attached in an x-pattern across the legs. This notch should start 6″ from the bottom and go up 3 1/2″ (since we’re using 2x4s for the X). Mark a line 1 1/16″ in from the inner corner on the two adjoining faces. Then using a handsaw, carefully make multiple cuts from the corner to those lines, staying within that 6 – 8 1/2″ range. Once you have enough kerfs cut, you should be able to easily use your chisel to clean out the remaining wood to leave a nice smooth surface where the end of the 2×3 should fit perfectly. Of course, there are ways you can cut these notches with several different power tools – but they all require a jig, and if you are only doing four legs it is probably quicker just to do them by hand.

Step 2: Cut and attach the skirt boards

Now lets cut the skirt board for this DIY small square farmhouse table. These are cut from 1×4, at 43 1/4″ lengths. Since we are going to attach the top using z-clips to allow for the wood expansion and contraction we need a groove to attach them. Cut a 3/32″ wide x 3/8″ deep groove, 1/2″ from the top of each of these boards to accept the z-clips. This is easiest to do on a table saw using a thin kerf blade, but can also be done with a circular saw or even a router with a small straight bit. Alternatively, if you have a biscuit cutter, you can just cut several slots along the length of each skirt board.

We’re also going to need to cut 2 pocket holes on each inside end to use when attaching to the posts. Use wood glue and the 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach these skirt boards in the center of each post (approximately 1 1/8″ in from both the front and back edge).

Note: It is easier to install the skirt boards with the table upside down on a flat and level surface. Then you can attach the x-brace and skirt supports in the next two steps without having to flip the whole thing. It’ll be sturdier once you have all of the base assembled.

Step 3: Cut and attach the X-stretchers

The x-design stretchers for this table are made from two 2x4s. Cut two pieces to 62 5/8″ in length. We are going to attach these pieces together using a half lap joint. So each of these pieces now needs a 1 3/4″ deep x 1 1/2″ wide dado cut out of the center of the boards. This should be simple to do with a table saw, but can also be done with a circular or hand saw and chisel.

Once you have the stretcher boards cut, use wood glue to attach them to each other. Then more wood glue and a single pocket hole screw on the bottom side to attach them to the legs.

Step 4: Install the skirt board stretchers

One last piece on the leg assembly to add – the skirt board stretchers. These stretcher will add a little extra support to the 2×8 boards of the top, as they should run perpendicular to these support pieces. Cut these from 1 x 4s @ 45 1/2″ in length, and install with two 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws on each end.

I also like to install some triangular bracing in the leg corners. I cut these at 45° angles from some scrap using the miter saw, and then glue and nail them in. They aren’t 100% necessary, but they do help provide some extra support to hold the legs together and keep everything nice and tight.

Step 5: Join and attach the top

It’s now time to build and put the top on this table. The middle of the top is made of 2x8s, while the ends are made from a single 2×6. We’re going to rip the eight pieces of 2×8 down to 7″ wide, cutting at least 1/4″ from each edge in order to get the rounded over corners off both sides. I like to do that after cutting them to length because they are easier to work with.

Once you have the boards cut to length and ripped to width, it’s time to attach them to make the top of this DIY small square farmhouse table. I prefer to use biscuits, but you can also use pocket hole screws per the diagram below. In either case you’ll want to use ample amounts of wood glue. One of the advantages of the pocket hole screws is that you don’t have to clamp everything while the glue dries. I don’t mind the clamping, and will gladly trade off having to clamp for the smoother bottom (even though no one is going to see it).

Once the top is assembled, you can attach it to the leg assembly using the z-clips. As I mentioned above, z-clips are a much better option than screwing the skirt to the top, as the z-clips allow for the wood movement due to the natural expansion and contraction of wood. Once you have your top centered on the leg assembly, with an approximate 3 3/8″ overhang from the corner of each leg post, simply slide the z-clips into the groove cut in the skirt and screw them into the table top. Three or four z-clips per side should be more than enough.

Note: Make certain to attach the top with the middle boards running perpendicular to the center skirt stretcher so you get the benefit of the added support.

Step 6: Finish and enjoy your DIY small square farmhouse table

Now that your assembly is complete, give your entire table a good sanding. Progress through using 120, 180, and 220 grit sandpaper to ensure you have a super smooth finish. Then add a few coats of your favorite stain or varnish, let dry, and enjoy!

If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below or use our Contact Form.  We love the feedback!  Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

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