Here are a set of free DIY 2×4 double X bench plans. This bench design works well as a garden bench, a dining room bench, or just a decorative bench to use outside on your deck. These 2×4 double X bench plans are incredibly easy, so they make a great project for even a beginner. There are a few extra finishing touches that you can do to make it look even better, but they are completely optional as this bench looks great even without them.
Materials
- 4 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards
- 1 – 2″ x 3″ x 10′ board
- 32 – 3″ exterior wood screws
- 32 – wood plugs (optional)
- wood dowel (optional)
- exterior wood glue
- sander and/or sandpaper
- 2″ brad nails
- stain or paint as desired
Tools
- Miter Saw
- Drill (with counter sink bit)
- Driver
- Brad Nailer (optional)
- Tape Measure
- Clamps
- Pull saw (optional)
Step 1: Cut all of the pieces
There are only 20 total cuts to make in building this piece, with all of them being pretty straightforward. Just follow the below cut diagram to cut your four 2x4x8s, and one 2x3x10 into the appropriate pieces.
Step 2: Drill your countersink holes
After you have your pieces cut, now is a good time to drill the countersink holes in the four leg spacers, and the four legs. Note that all four leg spacers are cut exactly the same, while two of the legs have the countersink holes drilled on one side and the other two need the countersinks drilled on the opposite side.
You’ll also need to drill one countersink hole 6 3/4″ in from each end of the 44″ boards that will be used as the seat as shown in Step 7 below. So you should go ahead and drill these holes now as well.
OPTIONAL: If you want to take the time to give this piece an extra level of refinement during finishing, now is the time to prepare. Drill your countersink holes about 3/8 – 1/2″ deep so that you have room for wood plugs to hide the screw heads.
Step 3: Assemble the upper and lower leg stretchers
Now that you’ve prepped all of your loose pieces, it’s time to start putting this bench together. Start by assembling both the upper and lower stretchers. This entails simply lining up the centers of the pieces as shown in the diagrams below, applying wood glue to the stretcher ends, and then driving 3″ wood screws through the pre-drilled countersink holes. Note that the stretchers are only centered horizontally in the leg spacers. The tops of these pieces are all aligned – but we’ll actually be assembling the bench upside down to make the assembly easier. So simply leave the spacers and stretchers lying directly on your flat work surface and screw them in.
Step 4: Attach the legs
The next step in these 2×4 double X bench plans is to screw on the legs. Again, we are assembling this upside down, so you’ll be attaching the legs to the upper stretcher first (the shorter one with the 29″ board). You’ll want to set your outside “top” corner of the legs about 1/2″ out from the outside “top” corner of the stretcher. Make certain you have the legs laid out with the pre-drilled holes that start 3/4″ from the edge on the work surface (this is the “top” side of the legs), so that the holes align to the leg spacers. Now just put wood glue on the ends of the spacers, and drive 3″ wood screws through each pre-drilled hole.
Step 5: Attach the Xs
To make attaching the lower leg stretcher easier, go ahead and attach the Xs (made from the 2×3 board) now. The outside edges of these are inset from the upper stretcher by 1/4″ on each side. One X on each side should rest against the leg spacer, the other should be aligned to the middle of the 29″ stretcher. Draw a reference line 14 1/2″ in to mark the middle of the stretcher so you know where to place the X board. It’s easiest to use wood glue and 2″ brad nails to attach these pieces for now. We’ll add some wood screws in the next step.
Step 6: Attach lower leg stretcher
After putting your Xs in place lay your lower leg stretcher across them, centering the spacers on the end with the pre-drilled countersink holes in the legs. Use wood glue on the bottoms of the Xs and on the ends of the spacers. Drive 3″ wood screws through the pre-drilled countersink holes in the legs. Then use either 2″ brad nails or 3″ wood screws through the bottom of the leg stretcher into each of the boards of the Xs.
Now flip the entire piece over and brad nail or wood screw from the top of the top leg stretcher down into each board of the Xs to give them extra support.
Step 7: Attach the seat boards
The last step of construction for this piece is to attach the 44″ seat boards. If you are intending to use this as an outdoor bench that will get wet from rain, we recommend leaving 1/8″ to 1/4″ gaps between the boards. Assuming you are planning on leaving these gaps, set your first board 6 1/8″ in from the far side leg’s outer edge (see diagram below). If you do not want to leave gaps between the boards, set this first board at 6″ instead. Now align the rest of the boards based on this board, either leaving a 1/8 – 1/4″ gap in between, or not.
To attach these, simply use wood glue and 3″ wood screws.
Step 8: Plug countersink holes and finish
Here is where the refinement comes in. For each of those countersink holes, add a drop of wood glue and insert a plug made from a wood dowel of the appropriate diameter. If you have a plug cutter, you can cut these from the scrap pieces of 2×4. If not, just use a wood dowel you get from one of the big box stores. You don’t need to have these plugs flush when you first glue them in, as after the glue dries you can come back with a pull saw and easily trim them flush.
Now just sand the entire piece and finish with paint or stain as you wish!
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I think the X would look better if they were flush, they look to be just overlapped
Robert,
You are correct, these are just overlapped. You could easily do half lap joints to make them flush if that is your preference. It just makes the build more complicated for the standard DIYer.