Here are a set of plans for a flip top workbench that expand on our popular flip top tool cart plans. These flip top workbench plans add a work surface that doubles as an outfeed table from the planer and a second flip top station that is designed for a single tool so the other side doubles as a continuation of the center work surface.

Of course, these flip top tool cart plans were designed with our own tools in mind.  Before you get started you will want to measure your tools to ensure the size of the cart will fit your needs, and make any adjustments needed.

All of the 2x4s in this plan have 1/4″ ripped off of each edge, eliminating the rounded corners and reducing the overall size to 1 1/2″ x 3″.

Tools

• Saw – table, circular, or miter
• Drill / Driver
• Wood glue
• Tape measure
• Square
• Pocket hole jig (optional)

Materials / Cut List

• 2 – 2×4 at 94″ (long stretchers)
• 16 – 2×4 at 35″ (legs)
• 2 – 2×4 at 33″ (workbench top supports)
• 4 – 2×4 at 24″ (leg assembly stretchers)
• 2 – 2×4 at 22″ (recessed flip top)
• 2 – 2×4 at 19 1/2″ (lower shelf supports)
• 6 – 2×6 at 24″ (flip top sides)
• 2 – 25″ x 24″ – 3/4 plywood
• 2 – 25″ x 11 5/8″- 3/4 plywood
• 2 – 24″ x 23 1/2″ – 3/4 plywood
• 1 – 25″ x 24″ – 1/2″ plywood
• 1 – 36″ x 24″ – 1/2″ plywood
• 1 – 30″ x 22 1/2″ – 1/2″ plywood
• 8 – 3/8″ x 6″ eye bolts
• 8 – 3/8″ x 2″ bolts
• 8 – 3/8″ washers
• 8 – 3/8″ lock nuts
• 8 – knobs
• 2 – 3/4″ x 6″ carriage bolts
• 1 – 3/4″ x 32″ threaded rod
• 8 – 3/4″ nuts
• 4 – Rockler casters (optional)
• 4 – 3/4″ washers
• Screws

Step 1: Cut and glue the leg assemblies

These flip top tool cart plans utilize 2x4s, doubled up, for the eight legs. Which means there are sixteen 35″ pieces in total.  Even though there are eight leg assemblies, take note that it is actually two sets of four, as there are four outward and four inward facing legs.   The only difference between these sets is which side the 3/8″ slot is located. So you can build all eight legs at once, then cut the slots accordingly.

Step 2: Add in the long stretchers

Now that you have the legs cut, you will need to slide in, glue, and screw the long stretcher. Ensure that the legs are ordered so that the legs are facing each other as in the image below.

Note: If you’ve adjusted these designs to accommodate wider (or narrower) tools, you’ll want to adjust the length of the 33″ stretcher pieces to allow for the usage of a wider top.

Step 3: Cut cross braces and build the base structure

Now that we have the legs in place for this flip top workbench, it is time to add the cross braces. The lower cross braces are simple 2×4, cut to 24″, then glue and screwed in placed. The upper cross braces are the heart of our flip tops and will be carrying all of the weight of the tools. This means we’ll be using 2x6s cut to 24″ long. You will actually need to cut a total of six of these for these plans since the second flip top will be using them too. The hole is 3/4″ diameter, centered on each board. Once you have these cut, glue and screw them in place.

Step 4: Build the two tool flip top

The top consists of three layers of 3/4″ material and has a finished size of 24 x 25″.   This size leaves about a 1/2″ gap on each side of the top to ensure you have plenty of clearance to rotate the table. Remember though, we sized this cart specifically for our tools – so if you need yours slightly wider or narrower, you’ll have to adjust your pieces here.

The top and bottom layers, or outer layers, are simply cut to 24 x 25″ rectangles.   Each out layer has two step holes drilled into the corners, 1″ from the front/back edge (the 25″ long sides), and 1 1/2″ from the side edges (the 24″ long sides).  For the 7/8″ holes in the top and bottom boards, you want to drill these about 3/8″ deep.  Then you want to drill the rest of the way through the center of these holes with a 3/8″ drill bit.  These two-step holes will allow you to countersink the 1 1/2″ bolts which hold the eye bolts in plans so that the ends do not protrude from your top.

For the middle layer, you’ll need to cut two pieces to be 25″ x 11 5/8″.  When combined, these two pieces wind up 3/4″ shorter than the outer layers you just made.  This 3/4″ difference will serve as the channel for the threaded rod.   On the outer two corners of each of these middle layer pieces, you’ll also need to cut out a 2″ x 1 1/2″ rectangle. This space will allow for the eye bolt, which turns into the locking mechanism, to sit.

Before gluing your top together, now is a good time to dry fit the pieces – including the 3/4″ threaded rod.  The rod should fit snug in the 3/4″ x 3/4″ channel you have created.  You don’t want it so tight that it cannot turn at all, but you also don’t want it to be sloppy loose.  If either of these scenarios are happening, you can adjust the width of the channel by moving the sides of the middle piece in and out just so slightly.  This should provide just the right amount of play and resistance for the threaded rod.

Step 5: Assemble the double tool flip top

Now that you have your first flip top built, it’s time to put it in place.  Start by inserting the threaded rod through one side of the cart base, then all the way through the top, and out the other side of the cart base.  Put a washer and two nuts on each end of the threaded rod.  The inner nut should be snugged up close to the washer and the outside of the cart base – but you don’t want to tighten it down against the base otherwise the top won’t rotate freely.  Instead, tighten the inner nut against the outer nut and combined the two should lock each other into place and prevent the threaded rod from moving laterally.

The last step is to put the eye of an eye bolt in each corner of the middle layer of the top, and then secure it in place by putting one of the 2″ bolts through the eye of the nut and tightening them down.  The eye bolt should still rotate freely, allowing you to slide it through the slot cut in the legs, where you can then put a washer and the knob on the end of the bolt.   These four eye bolts now act as a means to lock the top so it does not rotate.  When you are ready to flip your cart, simply loosen the knobs, slide out the eye bolts, and then rotate away!

Step 6: Build the single tool flip top

Now we’re going to build the recessed flip top on the other side of the workbench. We’re precessing this one for a few reasons. One is so that we can flip the side over and have an extended working area on the same plane as the workbench. Another reason is that because we’re only putting one tool on this side, having the center of gravity too high above the lag bolts will make it difficult, and potentially unsafe, to flip the top over. Recessing this side allows the tool to sit a little lower to bring that center of gravity a little lower.

Building this side starts with the extra 2x6s that you cut up in Step 3. However you are going to modify them by cutting a 3/4″ x 3/4″ dado on one edge of each to allow for attaching the plywood bottom. Glue and screw two 22″ 2x4s to align with the bottom of the dado. Make certain the entire unit is square, then glue and screw on the 3/4″ sheet of plywood so that it sits in those dados and on the 2x4s. Follow that with gluing and screwing the 1/2″ plywood in place.

This unit gets attached to the leg assemblies using the 3/4″ 6″ lag bolts, washers, and nuts.

Step 7: Workbench supports and plywood

The last thing we’re going to do in building this flip top workbench plans is to put on the central workbench and shelf. Start with the 2×4 supports. Pocket holes can be used to help attach these, or you can screw from the outside.

I used 1/2″ plywood on the top workbench because the outfeed of our planer is 2 1/2″ high. Using 1/2″ plywood puts this top at exactly the right height to match the outfeed. This allows us to mount our planer sideways and have a built in extra long outfeed table.

The lower shelf is 3/4″ plywood, and can just be glued and screwed in place.

Step 8: Attaching your tools

Of course, these flip top workbench plans wouldn’t be much good if we didn’t at least give you a helpful tip about attaching your tools.  So the best tip we can provide you for attaching your tools is to start by finding the lateral center of balance for each of the tools you’re planning on attaching.  The easiest way we found to do this was to lay the 3/4″ threaded rod on a large flat surface.  Then, set your tool on top of the rod in the same orientation that the tool will sit on the flip top cart.  Move then tool forward and back until it balances on the rod, and use a black marker to make a line on each side of your tool directly above the middle of the threaded rod.  This is your tool’s center of balance, and should be positioned directly over the threaded rod when you are attaching it to your top.  By doing this with both tools, you’ll help ensure that your top rotates easily without trying to whip itself around and possibly injuring someone.

Don’t forget to show off your work in our Share Your Build section. We truly appreciate it when people share their work and let us know how our plans turned out for others.

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