Here is another variation of our sliding door console plans, this time a 48″ three bay version. The shopping list for these 48″ counter height sliding door console plans do require a bit less material than some of our larger consoles. One of the biggest differences in this design is we suggest using 1×8 and 1×10 boards on the floor and the shelf since you can cut the pieces for each from a single 1×8 and a single 1×10.

Materials:

• 1 – 2×10 at 8 feet long
• 1 – 1×8 at 8 feet long
• 1 – 1×10 at 8 feet long
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ thick plywood or hardboard (for back)
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ thick plywood (for the door)
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ thick plywood (for the sides)
• 3 – 1×2 @ 6 feet long
• 1 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
• 2 – 1×3 @ 6 feet long
• 3 – 2×3 @ 8 feet long
• Wood screws
• Nails
• Hardware for sliding doors – You can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own. I made my own for my rustic barn wood dog crate.

Tools:

• Saw: circular, miter, and/or table saw.
• Drill / Driver
• Nail Gun or hammer (I’m really started to love the cordless finish nailers)
• Kreg jig
• Sander and sandpaper
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Wood glue

Counter height sliding door console cut List

• From the 2×10:
  • 2 – 48″ long boards, ripped to 9″ wide for the top
• From the 1×8:
  • 2 – 45″ long boards, ripped to 7″ wide for the floor and shelf
• From the 1×10:
  • 2 – 45″ long boards, ripped to 9″ wide for the floor and shelf
• From the 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood:
  • 9 – 34 1/2″ long x 5″ wide boards for the back
• From the 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 2 – 13 1/2″ x 28 1/2″ pieces for the door backs
  • 4 – 1 1/2″ x 28 1/2″ pieces for the door side trim
  • 4 – 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ pieces for the door top trim
  • 4 – 1 1/2″ x 28″ pieces for the door Xs (which will get trimmed down at the end)
• From the 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 16 1/4″ x 34 1/2″ pieces for the sides
• From the 1x2s:
  • 4 – 12 1/2″ pieces (vertical shelf supports)
  • 4 – 16″ pieces (horizontal shelf support
  • 2 – 17 3/4″ pieces with one 45° miter for side base trim
  • 1 – 48″ piece with two 45° miters for front base trim
• From the 1×4:
  • 2 – 41 1/2″ pieces for the top and bottom of the face frame
• From the 1x3s:
  • 2 – 34 1/2″ pieces for the face frame sides
  • 2 – 27 1/2″ pieces for the inner face frame stiles
• From the 2x3s
  • 4 – 42″ pieces for the frame long edges
  • 4 – 16″ pieces for the frame sides
  • 2 – 13″ pieces for the frame inner supports

Step 1: Build the upper and lower frames

Start by assembling your assembling your upper and lower frames. These are made out of 2x3s, and are identical. If you can’t find 2x3s, just rip 1″ off of 2x4s. If you rip 1/2″ off of each edge of the 2×4, you’ll wind up with some nice square lumber.

Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws for all joints. Due to the frame only being 42″ wide, these counter height sliding door console plans only require a single support inside each frame. If you want to be precise on centering them, you can – but they don’t have to be precise since they will be hidden in the final design.

If you plan on using pocket hole screws to attach the top boards, now is a good time to drill those pocket holes. Put four holes on the inside of each end (two for each top board) and four pocket holes in the middle board as well. That equates to six screws holding down each top board, which should be plenty.

Step 2: Add the plywood sides

Cut your two sides from the 3/4″ plywood sheet. These are each 34 1/2″ high, by 16 1/4″ wide. Note that these will be 1/4″ wider than the frames so that you can let that 1/4″ overhang the back edge and will conceal the outer edges of the back panels we’ll add later.

I like using 16 gauge nails and wood glue. The glue itself, if applied correctly, will provide a much stronger bond than any mechanical fastener. So the nails are really just holding it in place until the glue dries.

Note: Now is a good time to check to ensure the piece is square, before moving onto the face frame.

Step 3: Attach the face frame

The face frame is made out of 1 x 4 boards for the two rails, and 1×3 boards for all four stiles. Cut them to length and either use biscuits or pocket hole screws to attach them along with wood glue.

Once the face frame is assembled, use wood glue and finish nails to secure it in place. Again, make certain everything is nice and square before nailing.

Step 4: Floor and front shelf supports

Start with a 1″x8″x8′ board and a 1″x10″x8′ board, and cut two 45″ pieces from each of them. One piece of each will form your floor, and one piece of each will form your shelf. Now, you’ll also have to rip each of the 1×8 boards down to 7″ wide, and each of the 1x10s down to 9″. Once cut to size and dry fit, use wood glue and finish nails to secure the floor boards in place.

The four 12 1/2″ vertical shelf supports, made from 1x2s, are glued and attached to the backs of the face frame. The two outer ones should be pushed flush to the cabinet sides, while the center one is centered on the middle face frame board.

Step 5: Build and attach the shelf

Use the other pieces of the 1×8 and 1×10 from the step above to create the shelf, using four 16″ horizontal shelf supports made from 1x2s to hold the pieces together.  Use wood glue and finish nails to attach the 1x2s into the bottoms of the 1×6 and 1×8.  When building, make certain the horizontal shelf supports are aligned over the vertical supports installed on the last step. The shelf should be resting on the horizontal supports, not the shelf boards themselves.

Once the shelf is in place in the cabinet, attach the outer horizontal shelf supports to the cabinet sides using 1 1/4″ wood screws or nails.

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Step 6: Rip and attach plywood back planking

When you are ready to install the back planking, you have two options:

1. Make all of the planks the exact same, which means cutting nine boards at 5″, or
2. Make the boards varying widths for a more rustic/reclaimed look.

In either case, you will install them the same. Use wood glue and nails (or staples) at the top and bottom of each board to attach to the frames, and also secure the middle of the planks to the middle shelf to provide more structural integrity to the entire piece.

Note: it’s also a good practice to ensure the back of the piece is still square before you start attaching the planks.

Step 7: Add the Top

The next step in these counter height sliding door console plans is attaching the top. This consists of the 2″x10″x8′ board cut in half to form two 48″ pieces. These boards will also need to be ripped down to 9″ wide. Align the first piece flush with the back of the piece, and overhang each side equally. To hide the fasteners, use a Kreg jig and pocket screws from underneath going through the upper frame. Alternatively, you could use 4″ wood screws going straight up through the upper frame as well. For the second method, I definitely recommend pre-drilling the holes and even countersinking them to better hide the screw heads.

Step 8: Bottom Trim

The bottom trim is made of 1×2 stock that is standing on the narrower edge, cut with 45 degree miters. Simply glue and nail it on.

Step 9: Door and sliders

The simplest way to build the doors is to start by cutting a 13 1/2″ x 28 1/2″ piece of 1/2″ plywood, and then laying 1 1/2″ strips around the edges and in an X pattern. Though how you build the doors is really what will add your custom touch to this piece, so feel free to experiment.

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After you have your doors built, you just need to attach it to your barn door sliders and your console is ready for finishing. Again, you can buy the hardware for sliding doors, or you can make your own. I really enjoy making my own because it definitively gives a more rustic or antique feel to the piece.

If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below. We love the feedback! Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

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