Looking for a set of plans for building your own outdoor chairs? These DIY outdoor chair plans are simple and easy to follow, guiding you along the way in building your own outdoor chair.  These chairs work well on the deck, in a screened-in porch, by the firepit, or by the garden – and they are designed to work with most standard seat cushion sets you’ll find at the big box stores.

When building, if pressure treated wood is used these chairs should last years with minimal care. If you prefer to use untreated lumber a coat of paint or stain every few years will help preserve them.  You could also use a wood like cedar and these chairs will age and get more beautiful naturally over the years.  Each chair should only take about two hours to build.

Materials Needed

• 1 – 2″ x 6″ @ 8′
• 4 – 1″ x 3″ @ 6′
• 3 – 2″ x 4″ @ 8′
• exterior wood glue
• sander and/or sandpaper
• 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws
• 1 1/2″ exterior pocket hole screws
• 2 1/2″ exterior pocket hole screws
• stain or paint as desired

Tools

• Miter Saw or circular saw
• Jig saw (optional)
• Drill/Driver 
• Pocket hole
  • There are several options from Kreg you can choose from based on your budget and how much you plan on using it:
    • Kreg 720 pro on the high end
    • Kreg 520 jig with face clamp
    • Kreg 320 jig on the low end
• Square
• Tape Measure
• Quick-grip bar clamps (optional)
• A right-angle clamp comes in handy when doing pocket holes too

Step 1: Cut all of the parts

Let’s start by cutting all of the parts needed in these DIY outdoor chair plans. All of the cuts are easy 90° cuts with the exception of the back legs (made from the 2x6s) and the backrest sides. We’ll list the square cut pieces, for the two back legs and two backrest sides, refer to the diagram below. All pieces are from 2x4s except where noted. If you lay out the cuts before starting, you should be able to make all of the pieces from three 2x4s.

• 8 – 17″ boards from 1x3s for slats
• 2 – 20″ boards for the front and back of the seat frame
• 2 – 17″ boards for the sides of the seat frame
• 2 – 22 1/4″ boards for front legs
• 2 – 29″ boards for the arm rests
• 2 – 24 3/4″ boards for the back frame (with additional cut shown below)
• 1 – 17″ long board for the backrest top
• 2 – 24 5/8″ legs from 2x6s with ends cut at angles shown below

Step 2: Build the frame for the seat

Using the two 20″ boards and the two 17″ boards, screw together your seat frame as shown below. Use two 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws per corner.

Step 3: Add the seat slats

The next step in these DIY outdoor chair plans is to add the seat slats. Drill two pocket holes on each end of all of the 1×3 seat slats (you’ll use four now, and four later). Then space four of them evenly in the frame you made in the step above, with the non-drilled side sitting flush to the top of the frame. This will allow you to flip the frame over and have the pocket holes hidden in your completed piece. Use the 1 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach. Having the optional right-angle clamp helps to hold the pieces tight and flush.

Step 4: Attach the legs

Now onto the legs of your outdoor chair. First attach the two front legs. You’ll want the legs to extend 10 1/2″ below the bottom of the seat frame, and the fronts of the legs to be flush with the front of the seat frame. Use four 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws for each leg.

For the back legs, you’ll want to have the front of the bottom edge back about 20″ from the back edge of the front legs. Ensure that all four legs are resting on the ground evenly (this is where the quick-grip clamps come in handy) before securing each of back legs with two 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws. We’ll use two more screws on each in a few steps.

Step 5: Add the armrests

Next up is attaching the two 29″ armrests. You can opt to attach these as they were cut with square ends, or you can opt to round off the front end and add a taper (as shown in the picture below) to create a more traditional adirondack look. Regardless of design, use four 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws per arm – two attaching to the front leg, two attaching to the back leg. Leave a 1 1/2″ overhang in the front.

OPTIONAL: Use a jig saw to round off the front of the arms. Use a circular to cut a taper on the back. For the taper, I like to mark the line at 15″ from the back end and 1 3/4″ in on the back edge.

Step 8: Attach the seat back frame

We’re going to use a total of six screws to attach the seat back frame. Start by drilling two pocket hole screws lined up to the angled cut you made in Step 1. Then use the 2 1/2″ exterior pocket hole screws to attach to the seat frame. Ensure the board is pressed up against the armrest and back leg, and the top of the angled cut is aligned to the top of the seat. Then put two 2 1/2 exterior wood screws into the back leg, and two more into the arm rest.

After attaching both of the seat back frame boards, use four 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws to attach the 17″ 2×4 board at the top of the seat back frame (two screws on each end).

Step 9: Finish with seat back slats

Finally, space the remaining four 1×3 slats 1 3/4″ apart from each other and attach using pocket screws from the back so they are hidden. Make certain the fronts are flush with the front edge of the seat back frame.

Step 10: Sand and finish

Now that the assembly is complete, it’s time to give this outdoor chair a good sanding. You don’t want your guests getting splinters! If you used non-treated lumber, take the time to add a coat of paint or outdoor stain to help it stand up to the elements. Now add some cushions, then sit back and enjoy your handiwork!

If you have comments or question, please feel free to connect with us via the comments section below or use our Contact Form.  We love the feedback!  Also, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

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