These modern coffee table plans use semi-advanced joinery techniques to produce a more refined look.  There are no pocket hole screws involved in this one, but don’t fret the joinery is not as difficult as you might think.

The overall size of this table is 24″ wide, 48″ long, and 18″ high.

Materials:

• 3 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′
• 2″ x 24″ x 48″ table top

Required Tools:

• Miter saw or circular
• Table saw
• Wood glue
• Drill
• Sander

Step 1: Cut the top to size

These modern coffee table plans are based on a top that is 24″ wide, and 48″ long.  The plans also assume an actual table top thickness of 2″ – but even if you are just doubling up 3/4″ stock or edge gluing 1 1/2″ thick boards, you’ll still have a decent finished height to your coffee table.  Standard coffee table height is anywhere between 16″ and 18″ – and these modern coffee table plans are drawn to have a final height of 18″ with a 2″ thick table top.

Step 2: Cut the legs

The legs require a 10 degree angle to be cut on each end.  Ensure that you cut the ends so that they are parallel to each other.  The total length for these legs needs to be 16 1/4″ if you are doing half lap or bridle joints.  If you are doing mortise and tenon joinery, you can still cut them legs to 16 1/4″ and then trim down to a final length as you create the tenons.

Step 3: Cut the bottom supports

There are three total bottom support pieces required.

You will need to one longer runner to a total length of 31 37/64″.  Both ends need to be cut at 10 degree angles – these need to not be parallel, thereby making the shorter edge of this runner 30 23/64″.  Next, measure in 4 9/16″ from each end of the long edge, and cut a 1 1/2″ wide by 1 3/4″ deep dado.

For the two shorter bottom supports, the ends also have to be cut at non-parallel 10 degree angles so that the longer edge is 17 37/64″ while the shorter end is 16 23/64″.  Now measure in 7 7/16″ from the shorter edge and cut a 1 1/2″ wide by 1 3/4″ deep dado.

Step 4: Assemble the base

Base assembly really depends on the joinery you choose for attaching the legs to the bottom supports.  I personally prefer doing the half lap joints with pins because I think the “figuring it out” is a little easier.  Though I really prefer the look of the mortise and tenons simply because you can’t see how they are joined. Another option I do like, slightly easier than a mortise and tenon, is the bridle joint.

Step 5: Attach the top

Once you have the base assembled, attaching the top is the final step before finishing work.  For these plans, I would recommend using dowels.   Again, the angled mortise and tenons are a little too much mental work for me.  Cut two dowel holes into the top of each leg ensuring they are perpendicular to the floor (aka, straight up and not following the angle of your legs).   Then lay the top across your base (note that the legs are inset 6″ from each end and 1″ from each side) use dowel centers to mark the exact position needed for the 12 holes that need to be drilled into the bottom of the top.   Make certain to not drill too far and poke out of the other side of the top!

Now all that is left to do is sand, finish as you choose, and to enjoy your new hand-crafted piece!

If you liked these DIY plans, don’t forget to check out our other free DIY furniture plans.

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